GLD4404R00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took stud out of old wheel, put new stud in. It was that easy!

Easy install, snap in new axle and put wheel on stud. Be sure to check all wheels for any replacement due to heat melting wheels on rack.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Just like the video and replaced it

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

The replacement dishwasher basket easily fit in my dishwasher. Easy to order. Quick delivery. Highly recommended.

Removed rack, removed old roller pieces, installed new, replaced rack , and works as new now!!

This lower rack (GE part #WD28X25960) was ready to roll right into the dishwasher straight out of the box, no tools needed.

Although the replacement part was different that the original, the replacement is a better design and attached with no difficulty.

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

I removed the old rack and saved the flatware container. Then I put the new rack in.

The difference between the old one and the new one is that between a busted grocery cart with one wheel that always wants to return to the parking lot, and a well-trained dog that does exactly what I ask it to. The new rack was worth the $95 I spent to get it.

The new rack came with wheels and axles, so I didn't need to order more.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.