GLC4400R40WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

did it by hand, carefully flair out the plastic piece only enough to slide it into the metal rail.

Opened the package, opened the plastic parts bag, installed the roller and the cap.

Whew!

Ordered a new tub gasket and, although the gasket went on backorder for two weeks, the repair itself was extremely easy requiring no tools at all!

took screws from inside door panel and replaced the cover taking care not to allow plunger and spring to pop out put panel in place and screwed down

My wife grabbed the upper rack as she fell backwards across the front of the open dishwasher. It broke her fall - she is fine thank goodness - but the roller slides broke and the rail was destroyed. The dishwasher repair was easy - just had to put new parts in place. The detail parts explosion helps in determining how all physically goes together. Everything works as good as new. I used the pliers to remove one of the old wheel axles that was attached to the basket.

Ordered the new parts and attached to wheels on lower rack. The old pieces clamped on and the plastic stretched out and would not hold any longer. The 8 new pieces have a slightly different design, were easy to intall and I believe will never loosen up.

This repair was a snap. The parts, though not identical to the original, fit perfectly. I was able to snap both the Rack Slide Cap and the new wheel axle to the existing washer cage and the machine works great now.

Thanks for the quick delivery and great website!

This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.

I first watched a video on trouble shooting on You Tube. I took the insides of the dishwasher apart and found broken glass and some other debris.I shop vacuumed the inside and the dishwasher pump put back together and ran a rinse cycle,unfortunatly dishwasher was not draining. Got the model number and ordered the dishwasher pump through Part select. Within in a few days I had the part in hand and had to remove the dishwasher from under counter. Once turned over the pump was right there ands took 5 minutes to change replaced pump put everything back together and now dishwasher drains as expected.

changed the door gasket no tools,just pulled out the old,lined up the dot (printed on gasket)on the new and started at the top pushed in the new took five minute,the short bottom door seal required a phillips head screwdriver to remove the inside door screws(six screws) the two on the bottom are different they attach to the door hinge and are machine thread the other four are coarse thread.lifted off the panel slide off the old(pay attention to which way the curve goes) slide on the new replaced the panel put in the six screws.the job is done! the door will be tight to close but will be easier after a few uses.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.