GLD4500R10BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Watched online video, repaired myself in under 10 minutes.
Easy fix with video instructions

Opened the package, opened the plastic parts bag, installed the roller and the cap.

Whew!

Three of the four roller of my upper shelf of my dishwasher had broken...I went on line and in ten minutes ordered my rollers....a few days later rollers came and within fifteen minutes my dishwasher was up and running.....thank you so much....I will absolutely use this site again for future repairs....Thanks again. Marlene Martin

took screws from inside door panel and replaced the cover taking care not to allow plunger and spring to pop out put panel in place and screwed down

Ordered a new tub gasket and, although the gasket went on backorder for two weeks, the repair itself was extremely easy requiring no tools at all!

did it by hand, carefully flair out the plastic piece only enough to slide it into the metal rail.

This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

I removed the old gasket very easily as there wasn't even glue holding it in place. The new gasket just pressed right into a slot and makes a water tight seal.

I removed top dishwasher rack, popped off broken studs, and removed wheels from the tracks. I replaced studs on rack by popping them into place, and I slid new wheels back into wheel tracks. I place new studs into wheel assembly, slid rack back into dishwasher and replaced stoppers at the front of the tracks.

Got the part the next day.. opened it and just screwed into place!
Easy as could be. Thank you!!

Ordered the new parts and attached to wheels on lower rack. The old pieces clamped on and the plastic stretched out and would not hold any longer. The 8 new pieces have a slightly different design, were easy to intall and I believe will never loosen up.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.