GDWT106V00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

replaced it

Removed Dishwasher, inverted it and replaced the sump housing. There are 2 screws mounting the top of the dishwasher to the counter, a water connection and the electrical connection. Remember to turn the water off and the electricity off. Slide the DW out on carpet. Carried it to the garage to affect the repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher. Most difficult part of this is that the water hose is really short. I used a 6ft extension so that the next time I have to pull this out it will be easier.

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.

Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Once we ordered both the "Stud Roller" and "Roller Lower Rack" the repair was simple.

The previous studs mostly disitegrated, so their removal was not an issue. The wheels pulled off easily.

I recomend getting new studs and rollers for all of the wheels on your rack. For me, that was 8 wheels and 8 studs.

First, take the rack out and flp it upside down in a convenient working space. Next, remove all of the old wheels and studs from the rack and discard. Then, snap the new wheels on to the new studs. Next, atached the stud (with the wheel) to each of the 8 spots on the rack. Put the rack back in the dishwasher and walla!

I can't beive that I waited almost two years to make this simple repair.

1. remove old basket. 2 Place new basket.. Done

This repair applies to the right and left side upper slide rails for the upper dish rack, GE part number WD30X10039, (they are identical for each side) as used in GE dishwasher PDWT100V00BB.

No tools are required. A flashlight will come in handy and a wet rag or old towel may be useful to clean the DW interior while everything is apart.

1. Remove the upper dish rack from the old rails by sliding the rack forward as far as it will go and unclip the small horizontal locator rods on the dish rack (there are two on each side of the rack) from the corresponding plastic clips on both rails (mine had already broken so I skipped this step).

2. It is not necessary to remove any of the plastic end caps or clips to remove the old rails. Instead, look for a small (1/2 inches long) white lever about halfway along the inside of each the old rails (they face into the interior of the dishwasher). They will not be removed-they will retain the new rails. This is where the flashlight is helpful.

3. Push the left lever down and the right lever up (because the rails are identical but flipped) while pulling the rails forward. The rails should slide out. Be careful that the small plastic ball bearings on the innermost part of the old rails don't escape from their races. My DW was older and evidently he balls had deteriorated to the point that they no longer fit in their races. They went everywhere.

4. At this point, it may be worthwhile to clean the tracks still inside the DW where the new rails will go to remove accumulated gunk so that the new rails will slide as new.

5. Slide the new rails into the left and right tracks, keeping the same orientation as with the old rails. They should slide on easily without the necessity to pushing the levers again-the levers should simply move out of the way and then return to lock the new rails into place. It may take one or two tries to align the rails properly on the existing tracks, but once this is done the new rails should slide on easily.

I may have made this sound more difficult than it really is. It's fairly easy, but I couldn't find a video online for this particular repair and wanted to provide as much detail as possible. Good luck!

The repair is simple and straightforward. I rated as a bit difficult since the rack mounts on the new were located in the wrong place.

Releasing the rack from the slide rails requires either a Phillips screwdriver or a ratchet and socket.

The issue to check for, which I missed, is if the rail mounts on the new rack are in the same position as on the old rack. Mine were not and I did not discover until the new rack was fully installed. Once the unit was back out, 7 SS screws need to be removed on each side to move the mounts to the correct position.

Removed original silverware basket from dishwasher rack. Replaced it with new silverware basket. Placed original silverware basket in recycle bin (plastic content). So easy, even my 24 year old son could do it!

We removed the remaining rollers, inserted the studs into the rollers and attached to the lower rack. Easy. I can't believe we put up with this for so long. We appreciate your quick service. So much easier than going shopping and waiting for the parts to come in and then having to go pick them up. Thanks for being there.

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.