GSD2020F03BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Turn water off and unplug unit first. I remove the 2 retaining screws under counter, pulled out dishwasher. I laid it on it's side to get to pump, loosen up Hose clamps on inlet and outlet ports on pump. You may need a towel or rags to soak up a small amount of water from hoses and old pump. Removed the two hoses on the side, note the lowest one is the drain hose. Un plug all wire connections and loosen support bracket. Removed old pump and installed new one in reverse order. I had to use the 90* adapter hose and the white adapter for my drain hose.The kit contains all adapters and it all fits perfect. Reinstalled and tested unit worked great!!!

Recieved universal parts f/ pump & mtr assy. sorted them out, picked the ones I needed to complete my repair. Installed new assy, checked operation and was completly done in about an hour.

My old bones needed a break, or I could have been done faster. All's well, and the dirty dishes are back getting cleaned via machine, and not us.

The instructions were excellent, The repair was simple. The order process was excellent, as well as the delivertime. Part Select offers excellent bluline breakdown as well as east access to help which I did not need. Thank you Part Select for yor excellence of service.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

I had a problem where the GE dishwasher would randomly stall upon startup due to a dead spot in the motor which prevented it from energizing. I removed the dishwasher's bottom access panel to inspect it and found that not only was the motor dead but it had a sizable leak emanating from the pump seal. I removed the dishwasher from under the cabinet area and turned it over to make it easier to replace the motor and pump assembly which only took a matter of minutes; the most difficult part of the repair being the reinstalling of the dishwasher. The replacement motor/pump assy was not only modified from the original parts but it is also much quieter than the original. I also have to commend PartSelect on their very speedy delivery which was only 2 days. All in all with a couple of minor modifications that was taken care of with the included parts the repair went very easy.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

REmoved the bottom to plates on the dish washer
removed the old solenoid put the new one in and
the washer was fixed. if i could replace it anyone
could do it.

After checking to make sure the filter wasn't clogged I removed the faceplate and, poking around a bit realized that the solenoid that actuates the drain valve was jammed. Removing it was was simply a matter of removing a pin and two screws. I reattached the new part, the only difficult part was holding the part in place while reattaching a few springs. Closed it up and its working like a champ.

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

Unscrewed unit from counter and loosened legs using adjustable supports under dishwasher. After switching off water under sink and power at circuit breaker, removed motor and pump assembly and replaced with repair kit.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!