GLD6900N10BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

I noticed the circulation pump was not operating. If I turned the motor with a screw driver it would start running. I replaced the pump and now the dishwasher works like new. Very easy to replace the pump but you will have to pull out the dishwasher and turn on its back. I was able to confirm the circulation pump was the problem by observing the motor not running when it should but it would run once I turned the inside motor parts(be careful!). I also had to replace the center sprayer which again was very easy.

Just put axle and wheel together and popped them on. Thank you. I know you saved me a bundle.

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.

We pulled the dishwasher out completely, drained water that was in the dishwasher. Tilted the dishwasher and the part we needed to replace (Pump Drain Assembly) was in clear view. We used a screwdriver to take out a few screws and replaced the Pump Drain Assembly with the new one. Put the dishwasher back in and proceeded to wash dishes in the now fixed dishwasher. The part was very easy to change out.

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

My dishwasher was doing a terrible job of cleaning. It was leaving food on dishes, and wasn't dissolving all the detergent. I replaced all the spray arms and the filter, as they seemed clogged, and god knows how old. It's a super easy repair, and the dishwasher now works as if it were brand new.

Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.

Turned spray arm while lifting upward to remove the old part. Place new spray arm over the water outlet and turned with light downward pressure until properly seated.

It less time to do the repair than it took to open the box and unwrap the part!