GSD3610ZZ4AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the end caps on the two side tracks using pliers. I pulled out the old rack and inserted the new one. I replaced the end caps and I was done. It was that simple.

As per instructions from this site I simply unscrewed the entire assembly and installed the new spray arm assembly. The old unit was a bit stubborn due to age so I used the long handle of my favorite screwdriver, inserted through the bottom area, for leverage. The entire process took less than 5 minutes. Very simple and as a side benefit, the dishwasher operates much quieter than before the old spray arm broke. Guess the old arm was also worn out before it broke on this 18 year dishwasher.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

The repair could not have been more easy! We simply unscrewed the broken spray arm and screwed in the new one. For less than $50, we fixed it ourselves. We would have paid in excess of $350 for the repairman to fix it. We could not be more happy with this website, the videos and the fast delivery!

Took off little white plastic pieces at end of rail. Old rack off and new rack on. End pieces in and railing tighten with pliers. Easy!!!

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Basically, I told my girlfriend, hey, if you are board, this box has the parts to fix the dishwasher in it. When I got home from work, I had to connect one wire, and tighten a couple of screws. The kit has great, easy to follow directions. Thanks!!

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

After checking to make sure the filter wasn't clogged I removed the faceplate and, poking around a bit realized that the solenoid that actuates the drain valve was jammed. Removing it was was simply a matter of removing a pin and two screws. I reattached the new part, the only difficult part was holding the part in place while reattaching a few springs. Closed it up and its working like a champ.

REmoved the bottom to plates on the dish washer
removed the old solenoid put the new one in and
the washer was fixed. if i could replace it anyone
could do it.

I replaced the drain solenoid which was about $35 dollars. It consisted of a couple of springs, a hanging bracket, a plastic part and couple of screws to fasten the bracket and the solenoid of course. My dishwasher now drains the water. Much easier fix than i thought it would be.

We bought a used dishwasher that appeared to be in good shape. After installing I ran it through its cycle. It seemed to work fine but after the wash cycle it would not pump out to drain. I found there was a solenoid that controlled the pump direction (drain or to the washer). It tested to see if it was getting power when it was supposed to pump to drain and it was. When I manually actuated the valve the dishwasher pumped out as it was supposed to. With power to the solenoid and the valve working as it should the only peice left was the solenoid. I ordered it from PartsSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. Installation was only 2 screws and a spring and all now works great.
The on-line parts diagrams and fast shipping make PartsSelect the only choice when buying parts for my appliances.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.