GSD5940D00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.

Only getting "humming" sound from dishwasher. Although water had filled the dishwasher tub, pump/motor would not operate. After some research, figured the motor had siezed and I had to replace the pump/motor assembly as mentioned on this site. The kit came in a couple days and I reserved a Sunday afternoon for the repair which I had never done before. Hardest part of repair was unhooking and removing dishwasher from under counter and then getting it back in proper place. I would suggest providing some instruction within the repair instructions showing how the dishwasher is installed or how to remove it as I had never installed one so I was not quite sure what screws etc I needed to remove on the dishwasher itself to start to remove it? I was able to find the original installation instruction for the dishwasher and found that all you had to do was remove two screws from the inside top of the dishwasher which were securing it to the bottom side of the kitchen counter and then the whole thing just slides out. Once removed, turned dishwasher over to access bottom where pump/motor is located. After determining which diagram to use with the instructions, proceeded to replace the motor/pump assembly. It came out easily after wrestling with some corroded bolts/nuts and the existing pump inlet and outlet hose clamps. Mine were old and worthless and no new ones (3-4") are supplied with the kit. Had to run to hardware store to get new hose clamps for the inlet/outlet of the pump before intalling new one. Suggest new hose clamps be provided with the kit. Only thing that was not too clear in instructions was when reconnecting power wiring harness to motor. By looking closely at the instruction diagram I was able to locate what looked to be the right power extension harness from the bag of parts and attach it to the existing power wire harness and the new motor. Suggest also that you somehow better distinguish or identify the proper way the power wire harness should be fastned to the motor? The existing power wires were both the same color and both the female and male connections for the power at the new motor were identical leaving you to guess which wire goes to which connection. After re-installing dishwasher, put about a gallon of water in bottom of unit prior to starting and then put it through a few cycles. It has been working just like new. Suggest having a helper when removing and re-installing dishwasher from under kitchen counter to assist with the power cord, water line, drain line, and help to turn the dishwasher upside down and right side up again.

Remove two front mount screws from counter top
Lower dishwasher floor feets
Pulled electric leads cover and disconnect electric leads
Pulled dishwasher out and leaned on it's back
Sorry missed a step turn off breaker to dishwasher
Removed water line and drain hose
Removed motor/pump using only a socket setup and cross tip screw driver
Installed new motor/pump using same tools as removal
Stand dishwasher back up push back into space and reconnect all item mention in removal
Turn back on breaker
Ops check dishwasher
Done.

Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.

Ordered the part online and replaced the hoses. Very easy...took maybe 20 minutes

Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Simply screwed in new cap

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

Removed seven screws that held the inside panel to door. removed inside panel to work area and cleaned. After carefully observing the position of the old gasket, it was easily removed and the new one but in its place. Replaced the door being careful toalign the handle before tightly securing all seven screws. Repair worked, no more leak.

Put on a new cap.

Looked up possible causes on your website. Website stated that more than 50% of time the cause was the piston and nut assembly. Removed the piston and nut assembly in bottom of unit behind screen on rear wall and saw that the gasket seal was completely gone . Ordered the part. took less than 10 minutes to install. Tested the unit and it drained completely. Thank you as i was looking at a more difficult repair if the pump had to be replaced.Repair cost less than $20.00.Before changing piston and nut assembly I cleaned the strainer and sump. disconnected drain hose and checked for blockage . i than checked your website that listed the piston assembly as the culprit more than 50% of the time. Thanks again

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Inside door panel off

According to instructions with part