GSD5300G03CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the video instructions and it looked easy! The old gasket just pulled right off easily! Installation of the new gaskets was quick and easy!

I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.

I took the old one off and replaced it with the new one, which fir perfectly.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

Removed screws from back of door, a few more inside retaining the control panel (and a couple more from a small obstructing part located over a corner of the control panel). Then release/pull out the harness wires and tilt out the control from its retaining clips. Biggest problem was figuring out that the control panel was still being retained only by a stubborn clip that hung up in a slot on the control panel. Pliers were needed to pull out on the clip while tilting out the control panel. Replacement part then snapped in easily after its tabs on the bottom are inserted in the slots. Didn't have any trouble with the latch - - do not sure what the other entry means about being careful with the latch.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

Bulk of time was spent in diagnosis, eliminating other possible causes for the problem, such as wall switch and door switch and timer -- done with multi-meter.

Replacement of the control module was relatively easy, but **IMPORTANT TIP** Be sure to pull the specific model jumper wire from the old control module and re-attach it to the new replacement module. Otherwise, you'll just get a continuous blinking "clean" light and the dishwasher will not operate at all.

After two repair people were unable to solve the problem, I read similar stories in your forum and decided to replace the check value as a last ditch effort. Looking at your diagrams it seemed like an easy repair. Removed four screws with nutdriver and replaced value by hand. Ran washer three times and water drained completely. Still puzzled that this wasn't the first thing a repair person would check.
Websight very helpful.

Remove shield in rear. Unscrew valve using hand. Screw new valve in place.

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

Remove the back filter to access check valve assembly. Twist check valve assembly to remove, not significant deterioration of rubber cap. Install new assembly. Re-install filter. Super-easy and effective!