GSD3620Z02BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Removed old gasket. Then cleaned the track with a strong paper towel soaked in Windex to remove accumulated scale/soap. Followed the instructions provided with the gasket. I did not need to remove any screws from the door nor did I need to tumble the gasket in a dryer to remove kinks (There really were no kinks in the gasket, as supplied.). I did use a mirror to locate where the gasket should go underneath the bottom of the door, which you can't see. Feeling for the track with your fingers was sufficient for the installation.

My dishwasher used this part # as a substitute for the original part, which i guess is no longer made. After reading the other customers' comments,I thought people were describing two very different experiences with the installation -- some just "popped the cap off the end," or "couldn't be easier." Others had so much difficulty getting the cap off that they broke the cap. I think people must be dealing with totally different kinds of plastic caps. When I started on mine, I couldn't find a way to just "pop" the cap off. It was made so that some small flexible stems or prongs that slid in when installed could not be slid back out. I used a pliers to twist, poke, tilt, bend, whatever I could do to get the plastic cap off the end. That wasn't working, so I tried to bend rims the metal track open, but found the metal was too thick or strong for me to bend it. So I had to twist and force the cap, and the piece that kept the cap on broke off. On one side of the rack it was broken so badly that it couldn't be put back on--kept falling off. Had to try to crimp the rims of the track inward to keep the cap on. It's very loose but it has stayed in for the most part. The cap on the other side cracked enough to get it out without completely breaking off a piece. It went back in better than the first side. Pretty frustrating! I suspect because I don't have the original part with replacement caps to slide in. ?????

Held panel in place and drilled holes and installed drill screws.

The new rack was somewhat similiar, but the center section that had to be snapped on was different...no spinner on top...thank goodness for the little video on how to take the stoppers off and reinstall them...it worked...thank you for what you have provided the public and me!

To remove the old upper rack, I needed to use a screw driver to snap out the plastic end stops. That took a little time, because my dishwasher is located in a corner of my counter/cabinets, making the stop on the right very difficult to get to. Once that was done, I just slid the old rack out, the new rack in and replaced the stoppers. I was very impressed with your service and received my order in less time than stated on my order form. Will definitely use you again and recommend you to others!

Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!

The hardest part about this is removing the end caps. I had repaired the wheels a long time ago so I had some idea about how to do it. Bending the back of the end cap very slightly and twisting got them out. Then it was simply a matter of switching the racks, which came with its own wheels, and then putting the end caps back on.

I had to readjust the door latch to get the door to close

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Turn off the power at the breaker panel. Turn off the water supply that goes to the dishwasher. Remove the front lower panel to gain access to disconnect the water line and electric. Now remove the two screws that connect the dishwasher to the countertop. You should be free to slide the dishwasher from under the countertop far enough to remove the drain hose. Slide the dishwasher out all the way and lay on the floor door down. Loosen the two clamps that hold the motor up. Remove the motor bracket, (should only be one screw. Disconnect the wires from the motor. Now just pull the motor down and out. Repeat the process to install the new motor. I took several pictures before I started removing anything. The instruction that comes with the kit is very good. Their will be parts in the kit that will not be used. Not to worry!