GSD3200J00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

Remove old left and right corner tub baffles, make certain area where the new baffles are to be inserted is clean and free of any debris. Gently press new baffles in to each corner. Remove old gasket insert and replace with new. Tell wife the job was a three hour ordeal that require advanced skills to complete!

I replaced the top filler tube. (The $65 price for the filler tube is outrageous. Glad I didn't have a service man fix it. With mark-up it would have cost me over $100 for a 3 foot plastic tube. Crazy!)

While I was add it, I replaced the corner tub baffles.

The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the gaskets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!

Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.

Removed the dishwasher, turned it over, removed 3 hoses, 2 clamps, 2 wires and one support. Installed new pump and reconnected. Done!

Followed the instructions and it was easy. Made the washer seem brand new!...It is the best solutions for a small budget. We used CLR to wash out the washer workings and it really left a sparkle on the dishes... I am so glad you don't change the models so much that parts can't be exchanged when they wear...

Disconnect electrical power & shut off water supply. Remove front panel covers. Removed mounting screws (2). Unhooked water supply line & flow line. Took off old brass adapter fitting. Teflon taped fitting to new inlet. Performed reverse procedures. It ran just fine!!

I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump and removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.