GSD1005F00WH General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just like the video and replaced it

Your video doesn't include disconnecting water supply disconnecting electrical and disconnecting drain hose but after all that the repair to change the solenoid was a easy task but the problem was not solved so I TRIED . thanks Robert

This was one of those wonderful repairs where anything went right.
The part arrived overnight as ordered and even though I was abit leary of it fitting, since it was described as a replacement/new design, it fit perfectly! As mentioned in another post here, draining the water out of the unit so I could tip it over to do the replacement was the hardest part!
I'm sure I saved over $100 doing it myself. Thanks PartSelect!

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

I disconnected the power shut off water supply. I then removed the drain hoses and water supply to the old pump. I removed the ground wire and the mounting rod to the old pump. Once removed, I followed the easy illustrated diagrams and instructions that came with the replacement pump.
I mounted the new pump using the supplied hardware and reconnected suply line and drain hose. I turned water supply and power back on. Ran a test cycle before reinserting under countertop. Amazingly quiet and no leaks. Repair a success.

I would use this service again if needed for additonal home appliances.

Thank you
Mr. Buddy King

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Identified solinoid responsible for the operation of the drain flapper valve had become damaged, possibly due to its coil shorting and overheating, the inside plastic insulation then melted and came up through the solinoid pin hole. I removed the tension spring holding the flapper drain valve shut, removed the eclip holding the white phenelic arm connected to the tension spring, removed the two screws mounting the solinoid assy. I threw out the bad solinoid. I then proceeded to install the replacement solinoid in reverse order of removal. The end. Works like a champ ! Thank you for your quick shipping response time. My wife is now once again happy. As you know, if my wife isnt happy, I sure wont be happy. :)

Removed the 6 screws and took off the inside pannel. Removed 2 screws that secured the timer.Unplugged old timer leads and put the new one in reverse sequence. Piece of cake.

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one