GSD5760G01SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

First I removed the bottom dishwasher rack. Using a 1/4" nutdriver I removed (4) 1/4" screws from the drain cover that is inside the dishwasher all the way in the back. This will allow you to get to the piston and nut assembly which was easily removed with no tools by simply grasping and unscrewing. Used a wash cloth to wipe "gunk" from around the threads. I then screwed the new piston and nut assembly in place. Used no tools to tighten, just "snug up" by hand. The seal on my old piston and nut assembly was 50 percent gone, not sealing at all. I guess the years had taken their toll. This solved my problem. The dishwasher washes and drains as it should. Super easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to do the repair.

Followed the simple instructions to unscrew the old unit and replace with the new one. The unit was easily located on a diagram on the internet and the website instructions for removal were spot on.

Removed filter/screen by unscrewing 2 screws with a nut driver and then unscrewed the old Piston and Nut assembly and simply screwed in the new part. Problem solved and my dishes are much cleaner and the water is draining out completely. Easy fix for this frustrating problem.

Pulled the old one out and placed the new one right into place

After two repair people were unable to solve the problem, I read similar stories in your forum and decided to replace the check value as a last ditch effort. Looking at your diagrams it seemed like an easy repair. Removed four screws with nutdriver and replaced value by hand. Ran washer three times and water drained completely. Still puzzled that this wasn't the first thing a repair person would check.
Websight very helpful.

Removed screen bottom rear andfound a plunger type part, unscrewed plunger and found it was distressed around it and did not close of a tight seal. Placed new part into location and dishwasher now proforms perfect...

Removed 3/4" rear wheels from old damaged rack and installed them on new rack. Works fine now. For the price paid for this replacement rack, wide wheels should be included as part of the replacement package.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

Just like the video and replaced it

This large part is located at the bottom of the tub. It can be accessed by removing the lower dish rack. The assembly is held in place by threads. It can be removed by hand by unscrewing as shown in the PartSelect video. Replacing is just the reverse. The video was very helpful.