GSD5610D01AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.

Took lower basket out. Unscrewed lower arm assembly, removes it. Hand screwed it back in. No tools required at all.

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

Actually, the problem started with a Timer Motor failure, and that let the dishwasher run for 4 hours (doh!). Immediately, I tested and ordered the timer, which unfortunately didn't come as just a motor, it came as an assembly. I installed it, and the dishwasher ran the cycle just fine.

Except it didn't drain.

After poking around, I noticed the drain solenoid had apparently been overworked; the timer must have failed on DRAIN. The solenoid was severely overheated, and thankfully didn't cause a fire, but it was somewhat melted. Replaced the solenoid, and all is well, especially when my wife was eyeballing a $1000 Bosch!

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

This is a great website. I ordered my part on Wednesday night and it arrived Saturday morning without paying any extra for shipping. Plus since I am a female, this website enabled me to easily and affordably make the repair myself without having to worry about a repair man trying to take advantage of someone that they think they can.

I first made sure that there was nothing stuck in the drain area inside of the dishwasher. That meant I had to bail out all the standing water and then unscrew the mesh cover from the bottom. Since there was nothing in there I ordered a new solenoid.

First I unplugged the dishwasher. Then I removed the screws with a screwdriver that held the bottom cover on the dishwasher. Once I could see the installed solenoid, I put together the pieces of the replacement solenoid that I bought so I was sure to install the new one correctly. That did not require any tools. Then I unscrewed the two screws that held the solenoid in place and removed the little metal ring from the shaft which was the last piece holding it in place. Getting that ring off was tricky. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to pull it off. After that I put the new part on and screwed it in with the two screws provided. The little metal ring went on much easier than the old one came off. I screwed the bottom cover back on and voila! my dishwasher was fixed.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

FILTER GASKET ASM:

1. Manually unscrewed the lower dishwasher sprayer from the base of the dishwasher. (The filter gasket cannot come out with this in the way.)

2. Using a nut driver, unscrewed the old plastic filter cage in the rear.

3. Thanks to a tip from another user on this site, I carefully pried up the metal grommets on the two plastic studs in the front. I did this slowly with a flathead screwdriver, as I was worried about breaking the plastic. (Some plastic did whittle off of the studs from the sharpness of the grommets, but not so much that they were ruined.) Note, the studs look like something that can be replaced if you break them. They are not molded into the tub, as far as I can tell.

4. Removed the old (rotten looking gasket). Be careful! The edges around the filter drain are sharp. Used a turkey baster to suck out water from the filter area and wiped away mildew. The filter recess had broken glass in it and some other yucky stuff.

5. Easily reversed process with the new gasket. The new one has a lighter color and has the plastic, upside down basket thingy built-in. (No sharp edges). I pushed the metal grommets back onto the plastic studs, working them down as tightly as possible. They seem to be holding well.

Piston and Nut Assembly for Check Valve:

I wasn't sure I needed this, but ordered it anyway after seeing comments that the seal can corrode.
Mine looked ok, apart from food build-up, but I replaced it anyways.

1. Removed the screened housing that covers the length of the bottom-rear using nut driver.

2. Unscrewed the existing valve manually. It was easy to do. Cleaned area out as best as I could.

3. Reversed process with the new part.

Removed the dishwasher, turned it over, removed 3 hoses, 2 clamps, 2 wires and one support. Installed new pump and reconnected. Done!