GSD2220F01BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This repair was not difficult except that the part was hard to get to. You need to lay on the ground and the space is small to fit the tools in. It was especially difficult to squeeze the hose clamp on and off. If you are the handy sort and would not be intimidated by pulling the dishwasher out (like I was), then I recommend doing that. Changing the actual part was a breeze and self explanatory. Be sure to shut off the power and water supply to the dishwasher. Bring a towel to soak up residual water in the hose. Watch the video on this site, it was exactly what I needed to see! I was able to fix my mom's dishwasher! What a great feeling!

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

replace solenoid

Immediately shut off water supply to the washer. After ordering and receipt ot part: Removed base panel, turned off power, disconnected wire, water supply line and screws attaching washer to kitchen counter. Pulled the washer out and turned it on its side with the valve on top. Removed and replaced the valve, returned the washer to the upright position, pushed it back under the counter, reconnected all services, screws to counter and base panel, turned on the water and power. Took two hours since I needed take a trip to the hardware store to replace a right angle water fitting .

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working

got replacement valve from part select and works like new this dish wash er is 24 years old. believe it or not did the job with pair of pliers and screw driver. used pliers to take off clamp and screw driver to take out 2 screws and replaced the valve the same way in reverse

I removed the broken stub of the old fill cap with a screw remover. This was the only part that wasn't easy. The new cap fit fine.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

Wow, could not have been easier. The suggested repair stated that the water inlet valve was the problem 93% of the time. And, it was spot on. It was the exact same replacement part. And, once installed, it worked like a charm. I have bookmarked this website, and will use it for all future appliance repair. I simply could not be more pleased. It was a breeze. Thanks,

Remove front shields on bottom of dishwasher. Shut off dishwasher and electricity. Unplug electric connection. Unscrew brace holder screws on front. Remove clamped on hose at back of valve. Unscrew valve from copper water pipe. Screw on new valve to copper water pipe. Put on clamped hose. Screw on bracket. Plug in electric connection.

after watching related video on partselect.com, diagnosis and repair couldn't have been much simpler!

Held panel in place and drilled holes and installed drill screws.