GSD3820Z02BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

replaced pump and motor with new one. worked but pump would not empty the water. ordered additional parts check valve,seal and box that check valve screwed into. did not fix problem. Got to looking at replacement pump and discovered thet discharge solonoid was not completely opening the discharge port. I could hold it down manually and the machine would empty. I reported the problem to parts select and they without question shipped me a new pump and motor. took the dishwasher out of the wall again and swapped them out, and now it works fine. the repair was easy and simple. the difficulty was taking the dishwasher out and reinstalling it 3 times. I will use parts select again if the need arises.

took the moter off and the impellar off replaced the impeller .back and turn the washer back on but it still wouldnt .wash .the moter wouldnt turn .so had the moter tested and it was the moter . found out how and what to look for on you tube .it was a big help in how to fix your washer .typed in model and what kind portable .it was easy .thank you for haveing my part also .and shipping was real fast .

Pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter using a little rug to keep the metal feet from scratching the tile. It is surprisingly light. Old motor and pump are held in mainly by pipe clamps, easy to remove once the washer has been pulled out and turned on its side.

The instructions that came with the pump kit show how to set it up for several different dishwashers. Once you figure out which one you have it is quite easy to set it up. Mine leaked when I first started it up. I pulled it back out and re-tightened the large pipe clamps and it now runs dry.

The dishwasher runs quieter and the dishes come out clean now.

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

Remove the screen that runs along the back of the dishwasher.In the middle of the area that was covered with the screen you will see a white plastic valve with 2 little ears sticking up. Use the nose of a pair of pliers to twist counter/clockwise on the valve and it will come right out. Inspect the valve.If the rubber cone shaped valve inside the valve can be pushed through the top of the valve ,the valve is bad.Replace it and go wash your dishes.

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...

Looked online for a general cause. ABout 60 to 80 percent, the cause was the piston and nut assembly located in the back of the dishwasher. Ordered the part and installed in nothing flat. Only four nut screws to remove the take the filter off and unscrew the piston and nut assembly. Next cycle, no water and the drying cycle seemed to be better. Guess because no water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Good input and fast turn around on the part.

Partselect was the only one that had the correct solution. The Piston and Nut assembly fix the problem. The washer on top of the piston was worn and it would not fully close. Replace the piston and nut assembly within 15 minutes after I found it.Shipping was supposed to be within 3 days. The part came the next business day during the thanksgiving holiday. WOW

I put on my rubber gloves, removed the lower wash rack, removed four screws from the drain guard. I unscrewed the defective part, installed the new assembly and hand tightened. Replaced the cover and installed the screws removed earlier. Re installed the lower tray, and ran the rinse and drain cycle. It has been working beautifully ever since.

After researching for a few minutes on this site I was pretty confident that the problem I was having was a faulty check valve. I removed the 4 screws holding the cover in place at the back of the dishwasher tub, twisted out the check valve and saw it was obviously shot. I ordered the correct part and 2 days later I had the dishwasher working like new. Installation was a simple as could be....twist in the new valve and reinstall the 4 screws.

Followed the directions from the website and removed the plastic screen from the back of the washer (4 bolts). The Piston and Nut assembly was easliy removed with a few turns, popped the new one in, and re-installed the screen. Everything works great.

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

After running a test cycle and realizing the pump was working but not pumping all the water out, I checked the troubleshooting guide and parts list.
I found there was a check valve at the back of the machine and when I removed it I saw it was split causing the water to return into the unit. I ordered and replaced the check valve and the unit is back in perfect operation.

The part that took the longest was taking the washer out from under the counter. The fix was the easy part = 15 to 20 minutes no problems. After putting the washer back and reconecting everything,the first cycle I had some leaking around one of the two big clamps. I had to pull it out again and move the clamps around and tighten them. Much better the 2nd time around, Good to go!! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE !!!! Good Luck !!

first I removed the screen in the back of dishwasher and then I replaced the check valve