GSD4134Z02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

Bulk of time was spent in diagnosis, eliminating other possible causes for the problem, such as wall switch and door switch and timer -- done with multi-meter.

Replacement of the control module was relatively easy, but **IMPORTANT TIP** Be sure to pull the specific model jumper wire from the old control module and re-attach it to the new replacement module. Otherwise, you'll just get a continuous blinking "clean" light and the dishwasher will not operate at all.

Removed screws from back of door, a few more inside retaining the control panel (and a couple more from a small obstructing part located over a corner of the control panel). Then release/pull out the harness wires and tilt out the control from its retaining clips. Biggest problem was figuring out that the control panel was still being retained only by a stubborn clip that hung up in a slot on the control panel. Pliers were needed to pull out on the clip while tilting out the control panel. Replacement part then snapped in easily after its tabs on the bottom are inserted in the slots. Didn't have any trouble with the latch - - do not sure what the other entry means about being careful with the latch.

I disconnected the power shut off water supply. I then removed the drain hoses and water supply to the old pump. I removed the ground wire and the mounting rod to the old pump. Once removed, I followed the easy illustrated diagrams and instructions that came with the replacement pump.
I mounted the new pump using the supplied hardware and reconnected suply line and drain hose. I turned water supply and power back on. Ran a test cycle before reinserting under countertop. Amazingly quiet and no leaks. Repair a success.

I would use this service again if needed for additonal home appliances.

Thank you
Mr. Buddy King

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

remove the screen at the back bottom of dishwaser. (4 screws). Unthread piston and and nut assembly for check valve....thread in new one.
Problem solved....no more water $10 part....no repair person !!!

took end caps off (one broke) slid in new disk rack and put caps back on.

I looked at your web sight and saw how to repair dishwasher.

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

Removed screen bottom rear andfound a plunger type part, unscrewed plunger and found it was distressed around it and did not close of a tight seal. Placed new part into location and dishwasher now proforms perfect...