GHD5711N10BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.

two screws, two minutes, all done

Changed the main chip. the unit then started and continuously ran. Thought something was wrong with it. It is just a cycle of the dishwasher and when the pump quit running the dishwasher ran and operates. Saved me lots of money and time.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Replaced keypad electronics PC boards.

Popped in the new one and done!!!

Replaced lower spray arm

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

watched the video

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.

Ordered and replaced all three spray arms. The upper and middle spray arms were quickly replaced with a net-driver and are now working much better. The lower spray arm required no tool, just turn it CCW and lift it up. After replacement lower spray arm is still not moving at all. Maybe the lower spray arm washer is defective or the pump is just not putting out enough water. Will consider further repairs or replacement of the dish washer, it is 13 years old and used daily.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.