PDW9280L00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

put new part on by looking at other side no directions with parts

The rear wheel on the lower dish rack broke at the axle attachement. The wheel then feel inside the dishwasher against the heating element causing the wheel to melt. I ordered the new parts and they arrived very quickly. I attached the axle to the wheel with hand pressure, no tools required. I then attached the wheel assembly to the verticle support of the lower wash rack with hand pressure and was done. Very easy and the new design of the axle seems to attach better to the rack.

The orginal axle design was terrible. The old axles broke and fall off. The new axles snap on with moderate force but the keep the wheels on now. The Rack works perfect now!

We tried cleaning the sprayer by unclogging the spray holes but it didn't last very long. I decided to see what it would cost to replace the piece. I have used this site before and love how easy it is to find the part you need. The sites have good pictures so you feel very good that you are ordering the correct part. They also have helpful suggestions for problem.. I ordered the part and it arrived two days later and we installed it right away...I started the dishwasher for a test run and forgot how loud it use to spray..The prices are also great just a service call from a repair man would of cost me triple what I got my new part.

Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.

Just removed the old rollers and clamps, replaced them with the new rollers and clamps....just that simple.

On the Model PDW9880, there are about 14 screws to be removed. I used a large Phillips driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. You cannot use a cordless drill driver for about 10 of the screws unless you have a long bit, as the 10 screws are so close to the body of the dishwasher door that the chuck of the drill will not clear. At the top of the door there are two screws on either side of the latch. The two screws are attached to white plastic blocks that serve as a lip to hold the outer door to the liner. It took a little wrestling with the two plastic blocks to slide them out from under the lip, releasing the outer door. Be sure not to let the outer door drop away, as it will tug on the ribbon cables that connect the display to the dishwasher. Keep a towel or sponge handy to keep the
dishwasher handle from resting on the tile floor. There were 4 electrical connections, including two ribbon cables, both of which just pulled out. I needed a needle nose pliers to remove the 2 spade connectors from the detergent dispenser solenoid, in order to pull on the connector, not tug on the wire. The entire repair is actually pretty straightforward and easy. It took 40 minutes, doing it slowly and carefully. But please don't tell anyone that it is easy, because my wife thinks it was an extremely complex repair, involving the risk of high voltage electricity.

The replacement part fits different makes and models, and does not have any brand identification, other than the Cascade logo cast into the front. Other than that, it appears to be identical to the original. Note: The
soap cup does not open for several minutes in the cycle, so don’t waste time or frustrate yourself (as I did) by checking the dispenser during the first 10 minutes of the cycle. Incidentally, although the company is in Canada, my part shipped from Central California (Fresno) and arrived in the Los Angeles area the next business day.

Took old one out, put new one in in less than 20 seconds!

Had purchased SPRING DOOR, CABLE ASM, and HINGE CABLE PULLEY prior to starting repair, as I did not know which piece had failed. Cable assembly was the culprit. SPRING is heavy duty steel, HINGE CABLE PULLEY is nylon, and CABLE ASM (assembly) is braided steel with a steel plate at one end that ties into spring and an inadequate nylon piece that ties into the steel hook on the door. The nylon piece failed through tearing open. REPAIR STEPS: 1. Removed bottom cover plate at front. Two hex head nuts. Nut driver works best but Phillips head screw slots are on nuts. 2. Removed dime-sized cover plates located on either side of main unit where door seals when it is closed. Used Phillips head screwdriver to remove screws that are screwed into cabinets flanking dishwasher. Magnetic tip will help keep you from losing these between dishwasher and cabinet as they are too short to project through the access hole when fully unscrewed. 3. Lowered appliance feet using adjustable pliers. Slip wrench would probably work but six-sided appliance feet are slippery. 4. Loosened drain hose clamp from disposal and removed drain hose. 5. Shut off water line to dishwasher (under sink) and disconnected water line with slip wrench. Steps 4 and 5 were done to give me the slack I needed to pull dishwasher out from cavity far enough to access the side where the repairs were to be made. You may or may not need to do that--try pulling dishwasher out first and see how far it will go. 6. Looked at the problem, which was failed cable assembly. 7. Removed nylon Hinge Cable Pullley with nut driver. This allows cable removal. 8. Put cable back into place (loose) and then replaced Hinge Cable Pulley. 9. Reattached cable to spring on back end and door hook on front end. 10. Pushed dishwasher back into position. 11. Raised appliance feet to proper height. 12. Reinstalled side screws that hold dishwasher against cabinetry. 13. Replaced small screw cover plates. 14. Reattached drain line to disposal. 15. Reattached water line. 16. Turned water on and checked for leaks. 17. Reattached bottom cover plate to front of dishwasher.

It took more time to open the package than to actually effect the repair. I snapped the wheel on the axle, then snapped it in place on the front side of the dishwasher. It took less than 5 minutes to end the aggravation that had lasted months!

Bought the small piece to fit inside each wheel and replaced them. Now working and sliding perfectly