GSD2600G02BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Just like the video and replaced it

Received the new timer in the late afternoon. Waited until the next morning to work on it. The biggest problem was taking the door apart. the time slid into a bracket and was held on with 2 screws and it's plug. This went like a piece of cake. The next problem was getting the door back on and together by myself.....but I managed it. The whole job took less than one hour.....and the dishes from the night before were given the test run!

Your video doesn't include disconnecting water supply disconnecting electrical and disconnecting drain hose but after all that the repair to change the solenoid was a easy task but the problem was not solved so I TRIED . thanks Robert

This was one of those wonderful repairs where anything went right.
The part arrived overnight as ordered and even though I was abit leary of it fitting, since it was described as a replacement/new design, it fit perfectly! As mentioned in another post here, draining the water out of the unit so I could tip it over to do the replacement was the hardest part!
I'm sure I saved over $100 doing it myself. Thanks PartSelect!

repair kit was complete and directions were easy to follow. my model of dishwasher disnt even require any of the adapters. really only required removing a couple of clamps and replacing everything as a single unit

I went to your site and check all the diagrams and then read the postings from others. I turned off the electrical breaker then took off the lower cover of the dishwasher. After disconnecting the water and electricial connections I was able to remove the 2 screws holding the unit in place and it came right out. I turned the unit over and was able to just remove the old part and put the new part in place. The whole job took me about one hour but I had never worked on a dishwasher before. Your site made the repair very easy to do on my own.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

Identified solinoid responsible for the operation of the drain flapper valve had become damaged, possibly due to its coil shorting and overheating, the inside plastic insulation then melted and came up through the solinoid pin hole. I removed the tension spring holding the flapper drain valve shut, removed the eclip holding the white phenelic arm connected to the tension spring, removed the two screws mounting the solinoid assy. I threw out the bad solinoid. I then proceeded to install the replacement solinoid in reverse order of removal. The end. Works like a champ ! Thank you for your quick shipping response time. My wife is now once again happy. As you know, if my wife isnt happy, I sure wont be happy. :)

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.

Turned off the electricity to the dishwasher,removed the old solenoid,and put the new one on(very easy),turned the electrical breaker back on.

Recieved universal parts f/ pump & mtr assy. sorted them out, picked the ones I needed to complete my repair. Installed new assy, checked operation and was completly done in about an hour.

My old bones needed a break, or I could have been done faster. All's well, and the dirty dishes are back getting cleaned via machine, and not us.