GHDA350N00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simply replace wheel

so easy! Ordered the rollers and clips ... popped them on and done!!!

i needed new rollers and inserts to keep wheels on now its like new when i pull out bottom basket

Very easy! Removed 4 screws that was holding the valve to the bracket. Placed bracket over water inlet line. Attached copper threaded coupling with pliers.Screwed valved on to the coupling. Attached bracket to the valve with 4 screws. Reattached water line. Attached bracket to frame of dishwaser. Put kickplate back on and done!

All new seals

just snapped the new part in. couldn't have been easier

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

very happy with the product and fast shipping. removed kick plate from dishwasher, inlet valve was on the front left bottom slid out dishwasher removed two screws and disconnected water line,and installed new inlet valve,very simple job if your somewhat handy,make sure you use thred sealant on water line when re installing

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.

After installing the part, ran the washer once more. The water still remains in the washer. Tried washing several times. The problem is still the same.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

This repoair was needed due to diswasher leaking out of side door. I just moved in about 6 months ago and needed to use dishwasher. When it leaked i noticed it was in need of a gasket. I searched the internet and came accross "part select". Part showed up in less than 3 days and was a breeze to install. The original gasket came out just by pulling, cleaned up channel and installed new gasket.slid in real easy. I did take off inner door panel to inspect for any damage. none noted. Perfect fit first time. Dont get confused folks if the part has another name as some parts are interchangeable in the industry.