GSD4310Z04AA General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

i unscrewed old part and replaced with new one. Didn't know how to do it but figured it our quickly.

Order the part through you guys and also ask to see if there could be something else wrong. I got an e-mail back the first buisiness day and you sent me the part that day also. I installed the coil and it's be running good ever since. Thanks for your speedy service and technical support.

First I removed the two screws that hold the solinoid in place,then I removed the e clip and unpluged the wire and pulled out the plastic lever with the solinoid and springs. To install Solinoid:First I bolted on the bracket ,then I hooked in the spring in the plastic lever and installed lever on shaft then I hooked in the long spring to the bracket small hole in the bottum then I installed the e clip next I pluged in the wire.Then I tried the Washer .Averthing works fine.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

Removed screws from back of door, a few more inside retaining the control panel (and a couple more from a small obstructing part located over a corner of the control panel). Then release/pull out the harness wires and tilt out the control from its retaining clips. Biggest problem was figuring out that the control panel was still being retained only by a stubborn clip that hung up in a slot on the control panel. Pliers were needed to pull out on the clip while tilting out the control panel. Replacement part then snapped in easily after its tabs on the bottom are inserted in the slots. Didn't have any trouble with the latch - - do not sure what the other entry means about being careful with the latch.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

Bulk of time was spent in diagnosis, eliminating other possible causes for the problem, such as wall switch and door switch and timer -- done with multi-meter.

Replacement of the control module was relatively easy, but **IMPORTANT TIP** Be sure to pull the specific model jumper wire from the old control module and re-attach it to the new replacement module. Otherwise, you'll just get a continuous blinking "clean" light and the dishwasher will not operate at all.

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

I removed 2 screws a wire plug connector and replaced the old part. The total repair including putting the cover plate back on only took about 15 minutes. Also I saved approximately $130.00 by doing this repair my self.

Removed the 4 screws on front inspection plate and had easy access to solenoid switch. Unplugged unit and switched out with repair kit. So easy a caveman could do it...

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Followed the short video and the replacements were easy and was actually fun??

Removed filter/screen by unscrewing 2 screws with a nut driver and then unscrewed the old Piston and Nut assembly and simply screwed in the new part. Problem solved and my dishes are much cleaner and the water is draining out completely. Easy fix for this frustrating problem.

Removed filter screen with the socket set, removed the piston and nut assembly with pliers, and installed the new piston and nut assembly. Put filter screen back in with hex head screws. During the process, I opened the float regulator and cleaned it out too. Water backup problems solved.

The repair could not have been more easy! We simply unscrewed the broken spray arm and screwed in the new one. For less than $50, we fixed it ourselves. We would have paid in excess of $350 for the repairman to fix it. We could not be more happy with this website, the videos and the fast delivery!