GSD5650D01CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the old one from its slot and slid the new one into it.
No instructions needed.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

First I removed the four screws that secure the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Then I removed the four screws from the front cover at the toespace. Next I used an adjustable wrench to turn the feet to lower the unit enough to slide it out of the compartment. I unplugged the dishwasher and turned it on its side in order to access the hose chamber. I used a pliers to loosen the clamps at each end of the hose chamber and removed the the damaged item. Next I slid the ends of the new part into place and used the pliers to reposition the clamps. Finally I returned the dishwasher to an upright position, slid it back into the compartment, adjusted the feet to raise it to the proper height, put the toespace cover back on, secured the top of the unit to the underside of the countertop and I was good to go. No more water leakage.

Rolled bottom rack out and lifted out. Replace lower rack by simply setting new rack on rollers and push inside dishwaher.
Top rack required removing plastic end clips on both sides of upper rack arms. Little bit struggle to remove but once out, old upper slide out of arms.
Installed new upper rack on arms and push retaining clips back in. Job complete.

turn circuit breaker off

Remove 7 screws holding internal panel on door
pull panel up and off,be careful to clear door handle through slot on front. Put a weight of about 8 pounds on the door to hold it open

Remove six screws holding the circuit board, and the small black switch assembly and the pop the control board out. Swap electrical connections from old to new board. Reassemble in reverse
screws should be tightened with fingers on screwdriver only (metal in plastic)

Clean up and collect kiss from spouse

Received part, removed lower panel and shut water and power off to appliance. Used flash light to see under dishwasher, removed the two screws that held part in place. Loosed clamp that held the water tube in place to part. Placed towel down to catch water. Pulled the line out so I could get to the nut that is attached to inlet part. Unhooked the plug after all water was gotten up. The main knuckle that's attached to the pump was on so tight that I took it to my local gas station for an mechanic to unscrew it for me....I have arthritis in my hands. Station is only two mins from me and wasn't a problem for them to do for me. Came back put fresh Teflon tape on joint and reattached it to new part. Attached all hoses and clamps, plugged electrical prongs back in and attached bracket back to body of dishwasher. Turned water on and checked for leaks. Turned power back on and ran a cycle of dishes to wash....all went well. If the knuckle was on so tight the job would have only taken about 40 min at best.

Unplugged unit, unscrewed screws on top of dishwasher attached to countertop, undid water supply and drain hose that goes into tee with garbage disposal. Using crescent wrench turned front leveling screws up all the way and slid/rocked dishwasher out from under the counter - I had no problem leaving back leveling screws down. Turned dishwasher over on some towels (it WILL leak some water so spread out some towels!) so it was oriented like the directions that came with pump and motor. The directions were good, although color or a picture might have been more helpful. CHECK the new pump/ motor unit CAREFULLY for any loose debris from packing etc. I had a small piece of plastic that was in the top of the motor that goes in the dishwasher bottom that rattled around after I installed everything and put it back. I was able to get to it from the drain assembly in the tub but it made a heck of a racket at first. All in all, I had a great experience. I'm glad I ordered the pump and motor even though I only thought I needed the drain solenoid because when I took the old unit out, the prop on the old impeller was almost gone. Easy to order, good customer service (I called with a question and talked to a wonderful customer service representative!), good directions and easy to do. I'd say a 4 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Thanks PartSelect!

This was not a repair, But I wanted to comment on the excellence of service provided by Part Select.
Please accept my appreciation for the ease of ordering, the excellent website format and speed of shipping the products that I ordered.
Your staff clearly understands the excellence of service that so few companies provide today.
Thank you again for your commitment to service.
Jeff

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

Removed old rack replaced with new one which was an exact duplicate. Mama's happy; everybody's happy.

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

Remove Base Access Panel; Removed Valve Mounting Bracket & Valve; Disconnected Wire Connector; Disconnected Supply Line & distribution Hose; Reversed the Process. Piece of Cake; Part was O.E.M.Component Exact Fit; Took Longer to Write this than it took for Fix. Thanks I Will Be Back for other Parts.!

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.

The Solenoid black plastic had melted around the solenoid shaft. I unplugged the solenoid, removed 2 screws,then one C clip and pulled the the unit out. The new solenoid is difficult to install all together as the shaft it goes on holds it all together when both springs are installed - - so I installed in one piece, with the 2 screws, except for the white plastic thing, the C clip that holds it on the shaft, and one of the two springs - - these three items went on separately. I wanted to thank the help your expert gave, but I couldn't figure how to do that.

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.