GSD2300N00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

look at neww part first then r&r

This repoair was needed due to diswasher leaking out of side door. I just moved in about 6 months ago and needed to use dishwasher. When it leaked i noticed it was in need of a gasket. I searched the internet and came accross "part select". Part showed up in less than 3 days and was a breeze to install. The original gasket came out just by pulling, cleaned up channel and installed new gasket.slid in real easy. I did take off inner door panel to inspect for any damage. none noted. Perfect fit first time. Dont get confused folks if the part has another name as some parts are interchangeable in the industry.

Replaced the solenoid assembly.

remove front lower cover, 2 philips screws, turn off water supply under kitchen sink to dish washer, turn off power to dish washer, remove water supply line to valve, remove power to valve, clip ons, remove two 5/16" screws holding valve on, turn valve gently to access clip holding washer supply hose, push clip up hose and hold hose while pulling valve off. re-install in reverse order, a flash light helps.

very happy with the product and fast shipping. removed kick plate from dishwasher, inlet valve was on the front left bottom slid out dishwasher removed two screws and disconnected water line,and installed new inlet valve,very simple job if your somewhat handy,make sure you use thred sealant on water line when re installing

Water was leaking from under refer next to installed under counter dishwasher. Once determined to be dishwasher not refer I removed dishwasher toe place was able to see dripping inlet solenoid valve. I had to disconnect 11V power, shut off inlet water, disconnect inlet water house and remove dishwasher from under counter. Once dishwasher was in center of kitchen I flipped it upside down and removed the electric solenoid inlet valve. Removing the valve took one wrench to remove inlet hose then two wrenches to remove 90 degree brass fitting and another to hold solenoid. I used a nut drive to remove two screws that released the solenoid from the dishwasher frame. I used teflon tape to reattached the 90 degree brass fitting and inlet hose.

Attached is a link to a great youtube video, that shows the exact steps to take to do this job. I just follow the instructions and the repair was flawless.

First broke the tab on trying to get the sprayer arm out - had to buy replacement part. The tab to release the sprayer arm is on the BACK and can't be seen. FYI, pull the tab gently out from the back to release the sprayer arm. Problem wasn't a clogged drain. Next figured it had to be clogged in the Impeller and Seal assembly. Replaced that and realized the motor wouldn't turn. As an electronic engineer, determined the starting capacitor was defective. Found Mr. Nice GET (who owns Hotpoint) would not sell the capacitor, only the entire motor assembly for about $125.00 more or less. Found a capacitor at local motor shop with the correct value and hung it under the dishwasher. (wasn't the right package size to replace where the old one was). All is well - Finally.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

door gasket dried out due to not using the dishwasher very often and needed to be replaced. removed door, replaced gasket, and re-installed door.

Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.

knew the cause of problem ordered parts prompt delivery 16 yr grandson did the repair with little or no assistance

Removed bottom panel unplugged wires removed two screws removed it then replaced it

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.