ZBD3900C00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the directions from the website and removed the plastic screen from the back of the washer (4 bolts). The Piston and Nut assembly was easliy removed with a few turns, popped the new one in, and re-installed the screen. Everything works great.

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

I disconnected the water line on the left-front. Disconnected the drain line at the air-break. I removed the AC power-in box on the right front and disconnected the power lines going to the unit. I took out the two screws holding the unit to the cabinet (above the door) and slid the unit out onto a drop cloth (protect the floor; some water spills). Pulled the unit out and turned over. Followed the directions with the motor & pump valve kit, which were very easy to follow. Then reversed the above. Nut drivers are a must for this job.

Assistant helped me take apart unit, assumption on issue was correct, part was ordered and showed up 3days later. I installed and all seems fine. I do question what would have happened if the deduction was incorrect. The assistant was very patient and clear with his instructions. A good experience!

Most time spent was removing washer out from beneath the counter. Motor and pump installation was a breeze. Everything I needed was in the kit and easy to follow the instructions provided. Saved a lot of money and washer runs perfect. Thank you.

removed piston in filter and replaced. the check valve had come apart and was not sealing

First I removed the four screws from the screen/cover located at the back of the dishwasher. You will notice a mesh screen in the center of this cover. The check valve is under this cover midway between the sides. The check valve is unscrewed counter clockwise. I had to use a pair of pliers to start turning the valve. There are two "ears" on the top of the valve. You will see a rubber cone shaped piece that should completely cover the opening when the plunger is depressed. In my case the rubber was almost completely gone allowing water in the drain hose to return to the dishwasher after the drain pump stopped. The new check valve threads back into the opening and should be finger tightened. Replace the cover/screen and you should be good to go.

Replaced the Piston and Nut Assembly, located inside the dishwasher under the screen at the back, by unscrewing the old one and replacing with the new - Works great now!!

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, found where the leak was coming from, which took the most time. We ordered the new part on line, it came the next day and the installation of the new part took about 30 minutes and the dishwasher is like new now. This procedure saved us a lot of money.

removed old tower uuing a screwdriver to losen the tower from rack and slid the new part into place.

Took of the plactic strainer shroud unscrewed the piston nut assembly by hand installed the new one it takes longer to remove the shroud than it does to replace the part

I reinstalled a new piston/nut assembly which was easy as per this forum. The two compared side to side clearly showed my old one as worn out and deteriorated. This however wasn't the only problem. Once new piston/nut assembly was installed the water still did not drain. I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet, disconnected the hose connected from the pump to the outer box the piston/nut assembly connected to and flushed that out. I discovered two pieces of broken glass in the box that may have been blocking the rubber flapper connecting the box to the drain hose. Glass was removed and once all was reconnected the unit drained perfectly. Check for potential debris in outer piston/nut assembly piece if simple change out of of piston/nut assembly doesn't solve the issue.

I had to readjust the door latch to get the door to close

Remove filter screen at rear bottom of dishwasher with 1/4 in socket, remove check valve by hand, install new check valve, reinstall filter screen. Run a load of dishes, drained completly.

A loose neutral wire in the service box caused a short (possibly initiated by a power surge) tripping a GFI and powering down five outlets and the hardwired dishwasher supply. Checking voltage through various elements after removing the inside door panel revealed power up to the control board. Ordered and received the control board in a couple of days. Analysis of the problem took 1-2 hours but replacement took less than 10 minutes.