GSD2400N00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the video instructions and it looked easy! The old gasket just pulled right off easily! Installation of the new gaskets was quick and easy!

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

took end caps off (one broke) slid in new disk rack and put caps back on.

The access panel fit perfectly. The screw holes lined up just right and the screws went in without any trouble. The toe kick panel was a different story. It almost seems like it is a generic, one panel fits all part. I couldn't figure out how to attach it to the dishwasher. None of the holes/slots lined up with anything, so it is just sitting there being held in place by the access panel and the floor.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

1. Disconnect power
2. Remove inner door panel
3. Remove timer assembly
4. Look up model and part #
5. Review schematics and order part
6. Replace timer assembly
7. Replace inner door panel
8. Install new knob
9. Plug in power
10. Run through washing cycle
DONE!!!

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

Replaced impeller

Took off little white plastic pieces at end of rail. Old rack off and new rack on. End pieces in and railing tighten with pliers. Easy!!!

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one