GSC3400F01BL General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took screws out of door panel to get to the latch and replaced old latch with new one. Super easy

I took the inside door off as shown in the gasket insert video and it made much easier to clean and insert the door gasket.

Removed the 4 screws on front inspection plate and had easy access to solenoid switch. Unplugged unit and switched out with repair kit. So easy a caveman could do it...

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

At first I thought I would call a repair man.Then I thought-that will be at least $100!So we went online and found the part.Took about four days to arrive.I pulled the dishwasher out and turned it on it's front.The little leaking hose was easy to remove,two clamps,and the new one installed.Total cost-$14.00.

Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.

Simply opened the dishwasher door, removed the gasket insert located in the middle inside of the door and replaced with new. Also went ahead and replaced the seal on the inner edge of the inside dishwasher door. Found very simple instructions on Google on how to do make this repair. Very easy!

I removed 2 screws a wire plug connector and replaced the old part. The total repair including putting the cover plate back on only took about 15 minutes. Also I saved approximately $130.00 by doing this repair my self.

First let me say, it's so easy even a caveman can do it. I removed the water out of the bottom. Then I removed the cover in the very back of the machine with a wrench. As soon as I did that, I could see the piston. Next, I twisted the white piston out with my fingers (this was the hardest part). I could see the piston had partially disintigrated. I ordered a new one, had it delivered in a few days, and put it all back in reverse. It took minutes. Thanks to the guy that posted his story, I was able to fix mine for $18.

First I opened the dishwasher and removed the lower basket. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the food filter plate in place at the back of the tub. Then I unscrewed the Piston/Check Valve assembly counterclockwise, located at the back center of the tub, by hand. I replaced the old part with the new one and reinstalled the filter plate. I ran a rinse cycle to verify that that all of the water was purged. Finally, I reinstalled the lower basket and resumed using my dishwasher.

removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.

Your site is great! Saved me a service call for a repairman to come out and tell me what was wrong, order parts and then come back. Total repair was less than $90 including parts and shipping. It arrived in two days from when I ordered it. I ordered the replacement door gasket, the gasket insert and a new checkvalve. This was a super easy fix and I am a girl too boot! I am proud of myself!

I used a phillips screwdriver to take off about 8 screws off the white inner door fascia in order to replace the door seal. Keep this panel upright and do not lay it down since the rinse agent will leak out all over! Found out that the hard way.

Removed the old, dried out, outer door gasket, centered the notch that was on the new gasket at the top of the door and installed it all the way around in the door gasket groove. Installed the gasket insert at the bottom where the door gasket comes together on the bottom of the door.

After that was completed I used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the 4 hex screws at the back of the dishwasher for the cover that is over the check valve. It is white and has a very fine mesh screen.. so easy to identify.

The old check valve was filled with crud and and the rubber was deteriorated. I just backed the old one out counterclockwise and put in the new one, a little better than finger tight. Replaced the cover and the hex screws with the 1/4" nutdriver.

Reinstalled the white inner door panel, insure the door handle comes through the hole in the front prior to attaching your screws back in place. Closed the dishwasher. Ran it on rinse/hold cycle to make sure no leaks before going for a full wash. Works great and drains now too.

Your site is a lifesaver! Thanks!!!

After two repair people were unable to solve the problem, I read similar stories in your forum and decided to replace the check value as a last ditch effort. Looking at your diagrams it seemed like an easy repair. Removed four screws with nutdriver and replaced value by hand. Ran washer three times and water drained completely. Still puzzled that this wasn't the first thing a repair person would check.
Websight very helpful.

Remove shield in rear. Unscrew valve using hand. Screw new valve in place.