GSD2221F01BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Originally replaced solenoid without pulling unit out, but continued to leak. Purchased the entire motor and pump kit; pulled unit out, turned it on end and replaced the motor. The only problem was that no new ground screw was sent with the kit and the existing screw wasn't quite short enough to connect. Either the hole on the replacement kit needs to be deeper or a bond screw needs to be sent that will fit the new kit. We had to find our own screw that would fit properly.

Piece of cake. All done and working just fine.

followed instructions that came with the part. My dishwasher had a slightly different configuration than what the directions said so disassembly took a few minutes to figure out. Once that was done, the removal of the old impeller assembly and installation of the new went quite smoothly. The replacement assembly had a "grater" which was not present on my original however it installed perfectly and no longer leaks.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, found where the leak was coming from, which took the most time. We ordered the new part on line, it came the next day and the installation of the new part took about 30 minutes and the dishwasher is like new now. This procedure saved us a lot of money.

Most time spent was removing washer out from beneath the counter. Motor and pump installation was a breeze. Everything I needed was in the kit and easy to follow the instructions provided. Saved a lot of money and washer runs perfect. Thank you.

I disconnected the water line on the left-front. Disconnected the drain line at the air-break. I removed the AC power-in box on the right front and disconnected the power lines going to the unit. I took out the two screws holding the unit to the cabinet (above the door) and slid the unit out onto a drop cloth (protect the floor; some water spills). Pulled the unit out and turned over. Followed the directions with the motor & pump valve kit, which were very easy to follow. Then reversed the above. Nut drivers are a must for this job.

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.

replace solenoid

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Dishwasher is 22 years old and I'm 80 years old so it took longer, about 3 hours. After removing, turned upside down and removed old pump-motor assembly and replaced with new following directions [which took a little while to figure out; my assembly was quite a bit different from the replacement pump-motor]. Pleasantly surprised at how quiet the dishwasher now runs. Normally I would replace this old an appliance, but this unit has provision for inserting a wood panel that blends with the cabinets and a new GE dishwasher with this feature costs $1300 MSRP. I'm trying to save money for when I get old so I decided to do the repair myself. For $150 it was a worthwhile investment.