GSD2250F00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

Turn off the power at the breaker panel. Turn off the water supply that goes to the dishwasher. Remove the front lower panel to gain access to disconnect the water line and electric. Now remove the two screws that connect the dishwasher to the countertop. You should be free to slide the dishwasher from under the countertop far enough to remove the drain hose. Slide the dishwasher out all the way and lay on the floor door down. Loosen the two clamps that hold the motor up. Remove the motor bracket, (should only be one screw. Disconnect the wires from the motor. Now just pull the motor down and out. Repeat the process to install the new motor. I took several pictures before I started removing anything. The instruction that comes with the kit is very good. Their will be parts in the kit that will not be used. Not to worry!

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Dishwasher is 22 years old and I'm 80 years old so it took longer, about 3 hours. After removing, turned upside down and removed old pump-motor assembly and replaced with new following directions [which took a little while to figure out; my assembly was quite a bit different from the replacement pump-motor]. Pleasantly surprised at how quiet the dishwasher now runs. Normally I would replace this old an appliance, but this unit has provision for inserting a wood panel that blends with the cabinets and a new GE dishwasher with this feature costs $1300 MSRP. I'm trying to save money for when I get old so I decided to do the repair myself. For $150 it was a worthwhile investment.

Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.

i first order the corner baffles and put them in. no change at all, still leaked terribly. the old baffles looked pretty good so i kept them. i then ordered the door gasket and the insert. i removed the old one, put in the new, and still no change. i thought perhaps the machine hadn't been used at all because it was like brand new inside, and previously owned by 'a little old lady'. i decided to load it up and run it on a regular wash, and have done that three times now. it drips a very small amount on the left corner but i'm quite happy that it decreased so much. I think perhaps the seal might be setting with the heat of the cycle because each time a load goes through it get less and less drips from that corner. The first order was sent by ups and they couldn't find where i lived so i actually had to go pick them up, but the second order was sent fedex and they had no problem finding my home, and i was very pleased with how fast my order came.

door gasket dried out due to not using the dishwasher very often and needed to be replaced. removed door, replaced gasket, and re-installed door.

Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!

Dishwasher had flooded. Removed Dishwasher from cabinet and diagnosed problem. Found "PartSelect" on Internet and found Part kit available at reasonable price, in stock to ship immediately. Part #PS260801 [WD26x10013] contained enough parts to make installation easy and also I was able to cure discovery of slit in drain hose that attached to dishwasher drain outlet because kit included a short piece of hose and a hose clamp that allowed hose that had been trimmed to connect to outlet.

This repoair was needed due to diswasher leaking out of side door. I just moved in about 6 months ago and needed to use dishwasher. When it leaked i noticed it was in need of a gasket. I searched the internet and came accross "part select". Part showed up in less than 3 days and was a breeze to install. The original gasket came out just by pulling, cleaned up channel and installed new gasket.slid in real easy. I did take off inner door panel to inspect for any damage. none noted. Perfect fit first time. Dont get confused folks if the part has another name as some parts are interchangeable in the industry.

I took the dishwasher out from under the sink and looked at the pump and motor, saw that the cooling fan that this old style motor used was broke. Ordered this kit and installed it. I didn't even look at the directions that simple of a swap. Thank God!

The motor/pump Kit I purchased could fix/be installed in any GE dishwasher made since 1970. I would guess that the one I have is about 15-20 years old. I encountered only one small problem with the kit------ a motor hanger that had to be bent a bit to fit correctly. Other than that it was a total breeze. The clear instructions included in the kit helped quite a bit. In 30 minutes or so ,I was done and our machine was back in operation