ADT521PGJWS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

It wasnt exactly the right lower dish rack to hold silverware holder. Instead of the trouble of sending it back we will use it. Silverware holder takes up some of the space for other dishes.

Unscrewed mounting bracket from Fram. Unplugged wires. Took adjustable wrench took water line connector off original valve. Place connector on new valve and reconnected all lines and mounted back on frame.

The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.

The Install:
After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.

One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.

Took out the old and swapped out the parts from the old one and put them on the new rack. Looks great and works great.

1. Shut off circuit breaker power
2. remove toekick
3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board
4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers
5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door
6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way)
7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open)
8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely
9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket
9. reassemble door

The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.

Followed directions on YouTube

Once I got the dishwasher out of the cabinet, which required removing the top screws and then the lower face plate. I then removed the old pump by disconnecting the hoses, then removing the old pump by pulling it from the hanger wire. I then disconnected the wire harness. I then put the new pump in place in reverse order. The wire harness connections were different, and the new harness that came with the new pump I was not sure how it may have went with this unit. So I hard wired it by sniping out the wire connector on both sides and wire nutting the connections. Once done I put the dishwasher back in place and tested. Worked like a charm.

This was so easy! Our 4 year-old dishwasher began making a repetitive, clunking noise during wash cycle, and I deducted that it was the spray arms. I tried to rinse out old
spray arms, checked for clogs, and made sure they were installed correctly. The sound persisted, so I ordered replacement part (wash arm kit). I removed old spray arms and attached new ones. Problem solved and dishwasher is quiet again!

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

Quite simple. Only disassembly/reassembly was the spray mechanism attached to the bottom of the Upper Rack. Snaps off old and on to new rack with no tools. On this dishwasher model, there is no hose assembly running to water port, but the spray assembly is instead a integrated tube with a male port that "plugs" into a female port on back of unit. Definitely get 2 end caps.
Only difference from original, is the design of the bottom rack. To fit such that the door closes, the silverware rack is at the back of the unit versus the front. Somewhat inconvenient. Can put silverware rack in front, but then less efficient for dishes.

Unplug power to the dish washer.
Remove 2 kick plate screws to remove kick plate
Remove 2 screws that hold DW to underside of countertop
Slide out dishwasher enough to access the cables on each side at bottom of door.
With door closed, use plyers to lift the cable (one on each side) off the retaining stub.
Unplug door wiring connector.
Open door and slide door off the hinges.
Slide old seal out and insert new seal.

Reverse to reassemble

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

Replaced old rack.