HDA2160H65SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

Replacing the two corner baffles was the third attempt to stopping the leak. I first replaced the door seal without removing the inner door and the leak did not stop. Then I removed the inner door, reinstalled the door along the bottom and added the small seal required at the lower center portion which is separate than the longer door seal. Still leaked! Then I replaced the corner baffles and alas., the leak stopped. I would recommend that all seals be replaced at the same time. Total cost about $40.00 and can easily be done in one hour or less. I ordered the parts And they arrived remarkably in les than 24 House with regular delivery. Very pleased with Parts Select instructions and service!

After aligning the new knob shaft to the slotted hole and with a slight inward pressure, it snapped right in place

Replace both micro switches.

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

Replaced both corner tub baffles but did not correct the problem.

The only trick was the endcaps, which were not intuitive. I followed the instructions in the following Youtube video , which direct the user to bend a tab at the rear of the endcap back away from the front using a quarter in order to allow the endcap to rotate out of position inwards into the interior of the dishwasher. The old racks then slid easily out of the dishwasher, the new ones equally easily slid in, and then the endcaps required the tab to be bent back to allow them to rotate back into position.

Replaced the lower right and lower left corner tub baffles

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

Put end cap in dishwasher with movable part toward the back of the dishwasher. The free end of the movable part should be oriented at the top of the end cap. Put the lower half of the end cap into the rail behind the indented metal area so the widest part of the end cap is just opposite the hole where it should snap into place. Push the movable arm towards the back of the dishwasher until it fits under the upper rail. Then move the top half of the end cap into place under the top of the rail.

I ordered a drain valve shaft seal and new push on nut after reading similar stories of leaking problems on-line. I was pretty sure the leak was coming from the dump valve seal.

With repair parts on-hand, I took my dishwasher out during kitchen remodeling. I put the dishwasher on it's left side and removed the solenoid rod (lifts out on its own) and the dump valve's white plastic lever. I removed the old push on nut and pulled out the old washer with a small screwdriver. I then installed the new washer paying close attention to the supplied directions that said to install it with the lip in the correct direction. I then slipped on the new push on nut. The new push on nut is necessary since the old one will be destroyed in trying to remove it. I attacked it with needle nose plyers, a nail, and a small screwdriver before getting it bend and become loose enough to slide off. Care must be taken not to damage the shaft and groove. If you are generally handy at repairs, this repair will be easy.

I just hooked it up a few days ago and ran a cycle and no leak. Countertops will be installed in 4 days and the dishwasher will then get used frequently. I have faith the repair will hold and the dishwasher will remain leak free.

Luckily PartSelect was available to order the $20 repair parts and keep my faithful dishwasher on-line. Saved me the cost of a new $500 unit. I know this dishwasher cleans well and I don't have to risk buying a new one just to find out it doesn't clean as well.

The baffles looked worn so I started with replacing both of those. This did reduce the leaking from the left corner but did not totally stop it. I then decided to replace the door gasket so I put in an order for one and it came the following day. This was also very easy (no tools required). I just cleaned really good and dried the area and put the new door gasket in. NO MORE LEAK! We are getting ready to sell our home and this saved us from having to buy a new dishwasher. Thanks PartSelect:)