HDA2100H70CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The only trick was the endcaps, which were not intuitive. I followed the instructions in the following Youtube video , which direct the user to bend a tab at the rear of the endcap back away from the front using a quarter in order to allow the endcap to rotate out of position inwards into the interior of the dishwasher. The old racks then slid easily out of the dishwasher, the new ones equally easily slid in, and then the endcaps required the tab to be bent back to allow them to rotate back into position.

I simply lifted the baffles out and cleaned the base and installed the new baffles and started the dishwasher and NO LEAKS.

Pulled out old basket with holes at bottom and replaced it with new basket. Perfect fit!

I lifted out the old baffles, cleaned the soap scum from the recesses, and placed the new baffles in by hand. No tools were required, and total repair time was less than 8 minutes. the total cost was a fraction of the cost of a service call.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

Replaced both corner tub baffles but did not correct the problem.

turned dishwasher on its side; removed the old rubber connector, [which looked like a bulge in a baloon] inserted the new connector and hooked up water lines and bottom arm of dishwasher and was ready for use.

The repair was much easier than I expected. Just remove the 7 screws holding the inside cover of the dishwasher. Pull off the old Door Gasket and fit the new one in. As to the baffles they just pull out and slide the new ones in. This part of the repair took 15-30 minutes. What took the longest was cleaning the various areas from the scum that built up over the years.

I took the lower cover pannel screws out of the dish washer to view the pump assy. Then remove the solinoid bracket which covered the Drain Valve Seal. The hardest part was removing the star washer in front of the seal. That is where I had to use the pliers to remove it. Then I had to straighten
the washer out so I could reuse it. Pulled old Seal out and replaced with new and reassembled. Test ran a cycle and wasn't leaking any more. Easy fix!

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.