VDF200PM70BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Opened the box the new silverware basket came in and replaced the broken one.m

I simply lifted the baffles out and cleaned the base and installed the new baffles and started the dishwasher and NO LEAKS.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Replace both micro switches.

I lifted out the old baffles, cleaned the soap scum from the recesses, and placed the new baffles in by hand. No tools were required, and total repair time was less than 8 minutes. the total cost was a fraction of the cost of a service call.

Pulled out old basket with holes at bottom and replaced it with new basket. Perfect fit!

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

After aligning the new knob shaft to the slotted hole and with a slight inward pressure, it snapped right in place

Replaced both corner tub baffles but did not correct the problem.

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

I took the lower cover pannel screws out of the dish washer to view the pump assy. Then remove the solinoid bracket which covered the Drain Valve Seal. The hardest part was removing the star washer in front of the seal. That is where I had to use the pliers to remove it. Then I had to straighten
the washer out so I could reuse it. Pulled old Seal out and replaced with new and reassembled. Test ran a cycle and wasn't leaking any more. Easy fix!