Models > PNR22LSEFES

PNR22LSEFES General Electric Dishwasher

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This basket is part of a silverware basket that has 3 sections. This is the middle section of the basket.
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$49.29
If your dishwasher door will not close or latch, or the machine will not start, you may need to replace the door latch. This genuine OEM replacement latch is meant to keep your dishwasher door closed ...
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This water inlet valve is an authentic OEM part for your dishwasher. If can be found behind the lower kickplate panel in either the left or right corner. The valve has a solenoid that opens or closes ...
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This part releases the detergent and rinse aid into the dishwasher.
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The flood switch in your dishwasher controls the amount of hot and cold water that enters the appliance, ensuring the proper quantity of water to run the cycle. If your dishwasher is over or under fil...
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- Includes: 4 brackets, 4 roller wheel brackets, and 8 wheels part # WD12X26146 Dishwasher Lower Dishrack Carrier and Roller Kit (Set of 4). This kit will replace all four one piece roller carriers w...
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This genuine OEM bracket is used to secure the dishwasher to your cabinetry. The mounting bracket measures approximately 3 inches in length and is made of metal. If you have a solid-surface countertop...
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The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
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This gasket lines the inside cabinet in the dishwasher.
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This genuine rinse-aid dispenser cap is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with GE dishwashers. It covers the rinse agent port and securely seals the dispenser to keep the rinse ai...
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This dishwasher retainer connects to the removable tine.
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This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for PNR22LSEFES

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Leaking
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Door latch failure
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Will Not Start
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will not fill with water
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Not drying dishes properly
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Not draining
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Door won’t close
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Noisy
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Customer:
James from Naperville, IL
Parts Used:
WD12X10163
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo r.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
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Customer:
Jason from Jersey City, NJ
Parts Used:
WD05X10010
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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Customer:
Greg from Burlington, VT
Parts Used:
WD15X10014
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
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