GSD3360K70SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I lifted out the old baffles, cleaned the soap scum from the recesses, and placed the new baffles in by hand. No tools were required, and total repair time was less than 8 minutes. the total cost was a fraction of the cost of a service call.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

I watched the video instructions and it looked easy! The old gasket just pulled right off easily! Installation of the new gaskets was quick and easy!

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

I simply lifted the baffles out and cleaned the base and installed the new baffles and started the dishwasher and NO LEAKS.

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

The rack for my model has been discontinued so they shipped me the replacement version. The wheels on the new one are skinnier than the original model so I had to remove them and replace them with the wheels from the old rack for it to fit/roll correctly. The new wheels were a little tricky to get off as I had to use a screw driver and basically manipulate/pry apart the clamps that hold them on. The old wheels just snap on.

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

Replacing the two corner baffles was the third attempt to stopping the leak. I first replaced the door seal without removing the inner door and the leak did not stop. Then I removed the inner door, reinstalled the door along the bottom and added the small seal required at the lower center portion which is separate than the longer door seal. Still leaked! Then I replaced the corner baffles and alas., the leak stopped. I would recommend that all seals be replaced at the same time. Total cost about $40.00 and can easily be done in one hour or less. I ordered the parts And they arrived remarkably in les than 24 House with regular delivery. Very pleased with Parts Select instructions and service!