GSD2100V65BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

After aligning the new knob shaft to the slotted hole and with a slight inward pressure, it snapped right in place

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

Used drill and easy out to remove broken part, then put in new one

I ordered a drain valve shaft seal and new push on nut after reading similar stories of leaking problems on-line. I was pretty sure the leak was coming from the dump valve seal.

With repair parts on-hand, I took my dishwasher out during kitchen remodeling. I put the dishwasher on it's left side and removed the solenoid rod (lifts out on its own) and the dump valve's white plastic lever. I removed the old push on nut and pulled out the old washer with a small screwdriver. I then installed the new washer paying close attention to the supplied directions that said to install it with the lip in the correct direction. I then slipped on the new push on nut. The new push on nut is necessary since the old one will be destroyed in trying to remove it. I attacked it with needle nose plyers, a nail, and a small screwdriver before getting it bend and become loose enough to slide off. Care must be taken not to damage the shaft and groove. If you are generally handy at repairs, this repair will be easy.

I just hooked it up a few days ago and ran a cycle and no leak. Countertops will be installed in 4 days and the dishwasher will then get used frequently. I have faith the repair will hold and the dishwasher will remain leak free.

Luckily PartSelect was available to order the $20 repair parts and keep my faithful dishwasher on-line. Saved me the cost of a new $500 unit. I know this dishwasher cleans well and I don't have to risk buying a new one just to find out it doesn't clean as well.

Put end cap in dishwasher with movable part toward the back of the dishwasher. The free end of the movable part should be oriented at the top of the end cap. Put the lower half of the end cap into the rail behind the indented metal area so the widest part of the end cap is just opposite the hole where it should snap into place. Push the movable arm towards the back of the dishwasher until it fits under the upper rail. Then move the top half of the end cap into place under the top of the rail.