GSD2100V70CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

Removed 3/4" rear wheels from old damaged rack and installed them on new rack. Works fine now. For the price paid for this replacement rack, wide wheels should be included as part of the replacement package.

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Turned dishwasher on it's back, removed the connector, attached new connector with socket wrench, put motor & assembly back, reinstalled appliance.

Removed 1 C clip and 2 screws that held the Solonoid, cut the old push on nut off with a pair of dykes so it would not scratch the shaft, pinched out the old seal with a needle nose pliers and wiped everything clean with a moist paper towel. Replaced the old parts with the new ones but I still have the same, smaller, but same water leak.

I gently grasped the end caps with pliers and twisted them toward the center of the dishwasher while gently pulling on them. They came out with some minor difficulty. Be careful or they can be broken. When putting the caps back on the tracks grasp them with pliers to reinsert. Use a small srewdriver to assist in getting the plastic caps to slide into place. Wear light weight gloves when doing this to avoid getting cut on the sharp edges of the tracks.

Inspected the old gasket. Removed, cleaned, re-seated existing gasket. Tested and found smaller leaks. Purchased and installed new gasket. Majority of leaks stopped but some detergent still leaks. Unsure what the problem is with that but the main leaks have been fixed. Dishwasher is less than 5 years old. Thank You.

turned dishwasher on its side; removed the old rubber connector, [which looked like a bulge in a baloon] inserted the new connector and hooked up water lines and bottom arm of dishwasher and was ready for use.