GSD2100V70CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I read all the other repairs first to find out what I had to do. I then took front cover off the bottom of dishwasher. Identified the leak was coming from drain seal. I shut breaker off unpluged wires that were hooked to the drain valve sensor. removed the clip carfully as not to damage it. Removed srews that held down drain valve. removed the push on nut that holds drain seal in place. then removed old seal. I wiped down shaft to get ride of any corrosion and reinstalled new seal with deep socket and a srew driver. I installed new push on nut with another size socket. I fitted drain valve to shaft, used plyers to gently to pull shaft so I could put the c clip back onto grove on the shaft. reinstalled spring and plug wires back in turned breaker back on. I turned the dishwasher on and it did not leak. I was very happy that i did not have to take the dishwasher out. I did all repairs with everything still hooked up.

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.

Saved a bundle over the cost of a new dishwasher. by ultimately replacing the entire motor/pump assembly with one ordered from PartSelect.com And a bonus was a much quieter operating dishwasher!!

Here's what I did:

First tried replacing leaking drain valve shaft seal.
Removed entire motor pump assembly. Replaced seal. Still leaked (although less) because drain valve shaft was worn (corroded.)

Next ordered the entire motor/pump replacement assembly. The parts arrived in 2-1/2 days. (Should have replaced entire pump assembly to start with - all of the same labor to replace just the drain valve shaft seal.)

Anyways, instructions were very clear and well illustrated. This replacement took less time than to do the drain valve shaft seal.

Very simple repair:
1) Shut off water supply, electric power
2) remove front bottom insulated dishwasher cabinet cover grills.
3) disconnect drain hose and catch water in shallow dish.
4) disconnect water supply at solenoid valve.
5)disconnect electrical inside junction box and remove cable from dishwasher.
6) remove two under counter screws to top of tub
7) slide dishwasher out from under cabinets.
8) place soft carpet to cushion left side of dishwasher to avoid potential damage to water inlet to tub..
9) lay dishwasher onto left side. (Not right side, as jet dry reservoir wiill drain empty all over floor.)
10) unfasten motor support rod, power connector, and drain solenoid power connector.
11) unfasten motor ground wire.
undo pump inlet and outlet boot clamps.
12) remove old motor/pump assembly.
13) prepare new motor/pump assembly drain hose adapter stub reducer diameter to pump drain outlet. (tighten two hose clamps provided/)
14) place new motor/pump assembly into inlet and outlet boots.
15) fasten inlet and outlet boot clamps firmly tight.
16) install new, longer motor support rod (front)
17) install motor ground wire and new, fine thread grounding screw,
18) connect motor power to new power pigtail and plug new pigtail into motor power connection,
19) install wire wrap tie threaded through the support rod to front frame hole and support motor power wires/
20) install wire wrap tie through drain valve solenoid metal support holes and loop around solenoid power wires to support them.
21) tilt dishwasher upright and slide back under counter cabinets. Guid power and water supply lines to right under side of pump motor, and drain hose to left side.
22) reattach drain hose to new motor/pump drain stub reduce adapter, tighten hose clamp.
23) support drain hose with wire wrap tie looped over frame on left side.
24) reattach water supply to inlet water solenoid valve and tighten firmly.
25) redo electrical power supply connections to dishwasher hot, neutral, and ground (120VAC).
26) check level of dishwasher tub and adjust front and rear leveling legs on left and right sides. BE SURE LEVEL, OR WATER MAY SPILL OUT TUB WATER INLET OPENING DURING OPERATION.
27) remove inside tub drain trap screen (two screws) , and pull out sump baffle. Check for and remove clear any foreign objects inside tjhe sump.
28) replace sump baffle (flat baffel towards fromt. and tub drain screen cover.
29) Turn on water supply and electirc power supply.
30) Test wash a load of dishes and check for leakage.
31) reinstall fromt lower insulated cover grills.

Wow, the new motor/pump assembly operates very quietly compared to the old one - this is a pleasant and unexpected bonus.

No problems encountered.

Total time was about 2.5 hours to do all of above.

A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.

The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

I called the repair guy, and he told me I'd have to replace the motor/pump assembly. He said he could do it for around $250 to $300. I logged onto this website for a look and saw the seal available. After reading the other responses, I figured with a seal and the cheap push-nut (that sometimes gets mangled upon removal), it would be worth a try.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.

If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.

The top dish rack was not an exact replacement, the side shelf did not fit and the center spray did not fit. I ran into much more trouble removing the the top rack than I had thought. I used the old wheels and it finally went on but the other mentioned problems remained.

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it. Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.