GSD3360K65SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Replace both micro switches.

Pulled out old basket with holes at bottom and replaced it with new basket. Perfect fit!

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

I lifted out the old baffles, cleaned the soap scum from the recesses, and placed the new baffles in by hand. No tools were required, and total repair time was less than 8 minutes. the total cost was a fraction of the cost of a service call.

After aligning the new knob shaft to the slotted hole and with a slight inward pressure, it snapped right in place

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

The rack for my model has been discontinued so they shipped me the replacement version. The wheels on the new one are skinnier than the original model so I had to remove them and replace them with the wheels from the old rack for it to fit/roll correctly. The new wheels were a little tricky to get off as I had to use a screw driver and basically manipulate/pry apart the clamps that hold them on. The old wheels just snap on.

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.