GSD2100V65WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

lol it just slip on in 2 seconds...but i like to thank you for your prompt service and very informative site

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Simply removed the old rack and installed the new rack.....easy as 123 ABC. Dishwasher still works fine but the bottom rack had rusted out. Not sure if this is common for this Hotpoint dishwasher as my deciding factor to order from here was that others had the same problem as me.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

Replaced both corner tub baffles but did not correct the problem.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.