GSM2200V65WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the
guides.

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Used the pliers to remove the broken roller. It came off in pieces. Slid new one on.

Cap on end of roller track was a bit of a challenge. It sort of twists & pulls off.

1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides.
2. Removed the upper rack.
3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack.
4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack.
5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear.
6. Walked away

This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chances are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.

reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.

replaced rack, no repairs required

lower rack took one min. take out old slide in new

upper rack a little tricky had to remove end caps on rack arms to slide rack out to replace rollers. end caps are not snapped in they have a lever in the track that is part of the cap if you twist it a little cap will slide off.
total time for this part 15 min.

Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.

First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)

Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever

2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.

[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:

4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.

Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.

Opened package from Parts Select.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy