GSM2200V70BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I had a slow drip under the dish washer that originated from the solenoid shaft. The replacement o ring fixed it up. While I had it pulled out I replaced all the door seals and top rack rollers.

I ordered the parts on a Thursday evening and received them on Friday. WOW now that's fast! The parts came from Illinois and I live in Indiana so that might have helped but I was very surprised and glad for the quick service. I would defiantly order from Parts Select again. Thank you!

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Removed rack slide end caps. They broke off because of brittleness. Removed rack, then used pliers and/or flat blade screwdriver to remove 4 rollers and axle assemblies. Replaced with new rollers/axles. Return upper rack into slides and installed new end caps. New caps slightly different than old but easily clip into place Upper rack works lile new!

The replacement of door rubber seal was easy as well as the corner boot tub baffles. I did take the door off to make cleaning and installing seal easy. I wish your web site would recommend if replacing certain parts, additional
parts should be replaced at the same time. For my project I should have
replaced the 3 inch separate seal located inside bottom of door. You can't
see it until removal of the door. I am thankful for the easy to follow
instructions other people wrote and it made the job much less stressful..

Thanks again

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

I took out the old one and put the new one in.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

Took old rack out put new rack

Put on a new cap.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.

pretty easy, take off 7 screws from inside door

only hard part was getting arm to click into lever through the door. if you practice with the parts outside the door they lock together really well :)

My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.

installed new rollers per diagram then installed side ends into sides. Couldn`t have been easier. Dishwasher is like new now.