GDF510PGM5WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.

I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.

1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.

2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.

4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!

5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Good luck!

Replaced gasket with a new one before further problems occurred. Got to get it in but it was relatively easy to place and snap in just make sure it fits on the right place where gasket inside meets ridges on door so it will be on properly for proper fit.

Very straight forward. After removing the power source the dishwasher was pulled forward enough to access the the door hinge springs. Then the door could be removed and the inner skin separated to access the the dispenser mounting screws.

Looked up the replacement part on YouTube, watched a video and followed the instructions. Part ordered was the correct part and the video showed how to access for replacing. Watched a different video for hooking up the disconnected springs that allow the door to lower and close smoothly. Whole process for repairs was less than 30 minutes.

Removed two latch screws and one electrical connection, Removed
two screws that hold D/W to countertop, pulled D/W out enough to remove the old latch, install new latch, push D/W back into place, rescrew to counter top and rescrew the two latch screws. This problem happened since new, had repairmen twice and they did nothing but move the dishwasher stating it needed alignment, never mentioned this easy repair....

Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute

A quick twist of the locking nut

Removed the top two screws that hold the dishwasher to the cabinet , remove the two screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel. Screw the levelers all of the way up and pull out the dishwasher about 6 to 8 inch. Hook the new cabe on the spring and pull around pulley and attach it to the door bracket. I replaced both cables. Reverse to complete.

the hardest part was removing the door from the face of the washer. Getting the door off required accessing the sides, so I had to lower the feet so it would slide out of the recess it sits in.
Disconnecting the springs for the door was straight forward and simple. once those were disconnected, it lifted off the hinges easily. The seals themselves were simply press-fit into the recesses. the old ones pulled loose cleanly and easily.. the new ones pressed into place very simply and without any real effort.
Getting the door back on was a little problematic, mostly in getting the hinge pins to line up properly.. but once it settled in, it line up itself, and the springs were easily replaced. I re-leveled the dishwasher, and then ran it for a full cycle to ensure it wouldn't leak anymore.

The old gasket pulled right out with no tools needed,
The new gasket went in the same way.

Results:
It did help on one side, but the bottom gasket also needs to be replaced it has a couple of tears one on each end.

Next Steps:
When the bottom gasket gets here I will replace that and it should be as good as new.

Ordered the Upper and Lower rack assemblies. Lower rack slid right in as the wheels came with it. Upper rack had to be removed from rails and old spray arm removed so it could be used with new rack (spray arm does not come with it). Whole process took about 10 minutes, no tools needed other than your hands. Overall, installation was no hassle but sad that the racks don't last over 2 years.

Replaced latch

Followed video instructions step by step.
I was fortunate i had enough slack in water, electric and discharge lines to avoid disconnecting.

Two wrinkles
1. wire clips on my door had to be pulled/pried loose from door and there were two not one

2. could not slide dishwasher out after lowering adjusters and figured out it was the mounting tabs bumpimng the granite countertop, thus the use of putty knives to slide the dishwasher out.

took off 2 sheet metal on the bottom, lowered the dish washer, pulled it out enought to unscrew 2 screws, unplugged the old part plugged in the new, put it back together.
Works like a champ.

After hours looking for problem. I tried cleaning door gasket. Did not stop leak. Looked at lower water spray arm and it was split. It is literally a 2 minute repair to remove and install. Knock on wood, no leaks in the last 10 washes.