GSM2200V65BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched the convenient video and saved an old machine that I've grown to love. Plus I didn't have to pay a repair service or have to buy a new machine.
Thanks GE,
T. Dunn

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

Followed the very excellent instructions provided on website by Hotpoint/GE

Removed 3/4" rear wheels from old damaged rack and installed them on new rack. Works fine now. For the price paid for this replacement rack, wide wheels should be included as part of the replacement package.

I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher. Then took off the front panels and disconnected the water. I then unscrewed the dishwasher from the countertop, pulled it out luckily there was plenty of play in the wire, and drain hose. I turned it on its side and had to remove a couple clamps to free th piece that I was replacing. Once I got to it, it just unscrewed. I put the new one on and everything back together. It was easy.

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

Repair was easy. However, this did not solve the problem.

Followed the sequence from on line video provided by PartSelect. Knowing the sequence and the secret of the push on nut made the replacement simple. My dishwasher is built in therefore I pulled my dishwasher half way out to gain better access and did not need to disconnect drain or water supply. Just unplugged the power and went to work.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Ordered the Drain Valve Shaft Seal and Push On Nut to make repair. Removed dishwasher from counter. Removed motor/pump assembly from dishwasher. Removed drain celenoid from pump. Removed old push on nut and old drain valve seal. Installed new seal and push nut. Replaced everything in reverse order. Amazingly no water leaks after reinstallation. Seams to be working fine so far....fingers crossed. Hoping to get a few more years out of this dishwasher.
Thank You PartSelect.

Had to remove entire lower unit from dishwasher but it is a tight fit between the pump inlet flange and the floor.The next problem was to get the E clip off of the valve shaft. I knew the E clip had to be a straight fit when put back on the shaft so I had to straighten out before putting it back on the shaft after putting the new seal on the shaft correctly.Put the solonoid back on and made sure the valve shaft turned freely. Next fun was getting the pump unit back in place. Not easy (clearance) but got-er done!

I followed the video instructions on removing the rack slide end cap to prevent breaking it and it was very easy to remove and replace the broken one. I attached the new rack rollers and voila we were back in business. I was about to order a new dishwasher the night before for $5oo! Thankfully the stores website wasn't working so I couldn't. I decided to look online to find out if it was easy just to replace the parts. Looks like I saved close to $500 just replacing those parts! AWESOME!!!!!Thank you for a user friendly website. It made all the difference")

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

removed the end caps and took the rack out of the dish washer.

found right front rack roller bad and replaced.

slide rack back into dishwasher and replace end caps.