YTW4514SN0WS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

part select help

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

Replaced the agitator.
Very difficult to remove..Have to apply force and pull.
Theres no bolt inside if the fabric softener part that needed to be adjusted...

Upper portion of auger spins on bottom portion so they need to be locked together with a screwdriver to twist off counter clockwise. Good instructions here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4GzTJBho0&vl=en. Someone needs to hold the tub while another uses the strap wrench to turn the auger counter clockwise. Should pop off with a bit of force. New one pops on easy.

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

This was a very easy repair. It is basically and 'plug & play'. Be sure to separate the panel from the silver back plate slowly and carefully and note all connections, particularly the orange hollow tube connection. Every connector can only go into one corresponding spot. The most time spent was removing the screws to get inside the housing.

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

We disconnected the rear of the dashboard and folded it toward. We unsnapped the top cover and exposed the lid lock. We removed the old lid lock and replaced it with the new parts from SelectPart. Put it all back together.

I just took old one out an put new one in