GSD4620Z02BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed screws and replaced the part. It couldn't of been earlier. Only problem this kit didn't include a toe kick and we are having a hard time finding it.

Ordered motor and pump and replaced. Motor pump kit also comes with a drain solinoid so if that was the problem the kit repaired it. One issue is the size of the hanger to ensure the pump does not just hang on its mount. The directions were not very clear and after some trial and error I got it to work to.

took end caps off (one broke) slid in new disk rack and put caps back on.

Very simple to change it, only follow the instructions that came with the part and don’t have how to do wrong

I looked at your web sight and saw how to repair dishwasher.

Removed screen bottom rear andfound a plunger type part, unscrewed plunger and found it was distressed around it and did not close of a tight seal. Placed new part into location and dishwasher now proforms perfect...

I disconnected the power shut off water supply. I then removed the drain hoses and water supply to the old pump. I removed the ground wire and the mounting rod to the old pump. Once removed, I followed the easy illustrated diagrams and instructions that came with the replacement pump.
I mounted the new pump using the supplied hardware and reconnected suply line and drain hose. I turned water supply and power back on. Ran a test cycle before reinserting under countertop. Amazingly quiet and no leaks. Repair a success.

I would use this service again if needed for additonal home appliances.

Thank you
Mr. Buddy King

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

I removed the end caps on the two side tracks using pliers. I pulled out the old rack and inserted the new one. I replaced the end caps and I was done. It was that simple.

First let me say, it's so easy even a caveman can do it. I removed the water out of the bottom. Then I removed the cover in the very back of the machine with a wrench. As soon as I did that, I could see the piston. Next, I twisted the white piston out with my fingers (this was the hardest part). I could see the piston had partially disintigrated. I ordered a new one, had it delivered in a few days, and put it all back in reverse. It took minutes. Thanks to the guy that posted his story, I was able to fix mine for $18.

First I opened the dishwasher and removed the lower basket. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the food filter plate in place at the back of the tub. Then I unscrewed the Piston/Check Valve assembly counterclockwise, located at the back center of the tub, by hand. I replaced the old part with the new one and reinstalled the filter plate. I ran a rinse cycle to verify that that all of the water was purged. Finally, I reinstalled the lower basket and resumed using my dishwasher.

First I removed the bottom dishwasher rack. Using a 1/4" nutdriver I removed (4) 1/4" screws from the drain cover that is inside the dishwasher all the way in the back. This will allow you to get to the piston and nut assembly which was easily removed with no tools by simply grasping and unscrewing. Used a wash cloth to wipe "gunk" from around the threads. I then screwed the new piston and nut assembly in place. Used no tools to tighten, just "snug up" by hand. The seal on my old piston and nut assembly was 50 percent gone, not sealing at all. I guess the years had taken their toll. This solved my problem. The dishwasher washes and drains as it should. Super easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to do the repair.

As per instructions from this site I simply unscrewed the entire assembly and installed the new spray arm assembly. The old unit was a bit stubborn due to age so I used the long handle of my favorite screwdriver, inserted through the bottom area, for leverage. The entire process took less than 5 minutes. Very simple and as a side benefit, the dishwasher operates much quieter than before the old spray arm broke. Guess the old arm was also worn out before it broke on this 18 year dishwasher.

Unscrewed bottom of spray arm support assembly counterclockwise by hand for removal. Inserted new part and screwed it in clockwise by hand for installation. Worked perfectly. Video was helpful.