PSD1000Z00WH General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Piece of cake. All done and working just fine.

Unplugged the machine then removed the two connectors to the motor. Loosenned the hose clamps, pulled the hoses took off the balancing bar,removed old motor assembly and put new one in. Reverse all the steps plugged the machine back on and was done in less then twenty minutes.

pulled washer out and turned it upside down to get to the pump&motor.
no problem to fix

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

followed instructions that came with the part. My dishwasher had a slightly different configuration than what the directions said so disassembly took a few minutes to figure out. Once that was done, the removal of the old impeller assembly and installation of the new went quite smoothly. The replacement assembly had a "grater" which was not present on my original however it installed perfectly and no longer leaks.

The part that took the longest was taking the washer out from under the counter. The fix was the easy part = 15 to 20 minutes no problems. After putting the washer back and reconecting everything,the first cycle I had some leaking around one of the two big clamps. I had to pull it out again and move the clamps around and tighten them. Much better the 2nd time around, Good to go!! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE !!!! Good Luck !!

Most time spent was removing washer out from beneath the counter. Motor and pump installation was a breeze. Everything I needed was in the kit and easy to follow the instructions provided. Saved a lot of money and washer runs perfect. Thank you.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, found where the leak was coming from, which took the most time. We ordered the new part on line, it came the next day and the installation of the new part took about 30 minutes and the dishwasher is like new now. This procedure saved us a lot of money.

I disconnected the water line on the left-front. Disconnected the drain line at the air-break. I removed the AC power-in box on the right front and disconnected the power lines going to the unit. I took out the two screws holding the unit to the cabinet (above the door) and slid the unit out onto a drop cloth (protect the floor; some water spills). Pulled the unit out and turned over. Followed the directions with the motor & pump valve kit, which were very easy to follow. Then reversed the above. Nut drivers are a must for this job.

replaced the master toner relay.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.