GDF630PSM2SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Turn off the water.
2. Turn off the power to the dishwasher.
3. Pulled out the dishwasher.
4. Tilted it forward and to the side with a bowl to collect the water at the bottom.
5. Carefully laid the dishwasher on its side
6. Removed the existing pump. Make note of its orientation before removing (maybe take a picture). Disconnect the wire and loosen the 2 pipe clamps used to attach the pump. The pipe clamps were not the adjustable, reusable kind but the replacement part came with several.
7. Put the new pipe clamps on the hoses (the supply and discharge side) so they're in place.
8. Installed the replacement pump by pushing it on to the supply then the discharge hoses.
9. Move the clamps into place and tighten.
10. Reconnect the power wire.
11. Stand the dishwasher up.
12. Turn on the power and water.
13. Run a quick test to make sure it's working and doesn't leak.
14. Push it back in to place and reattach it to the cabinets.

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Took it out of the box and set rollers on track
rolled in place ALL DONE

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.

Repaired with the help of You Tube videos. To repair: remove door (note! the door can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out, or disconnecting spring cables). To remove the door insert allen wrench in holes under door to hold the door in the remove/ install position. separate the inner and outer door (easily done) then remove and replace the User interface board. The hardest part was locating the holes to insert the allen wrenches (or anything similar) in to. Dishwasher worked after repair. In my case the dishwasher would come back to life for a short period if I turned the power off, and back on. I read somewhere that was a symptom of the bad UI board. I was lucky because that was the problem.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Release DW from cabinet and pull out, Unplug power.
Remove kick plate and unplug door cable.
Open door about 6 inches and using socket back out 2 bolts at bottom of door corners.
Pull door up off hinges about 4 inches and slide old gasket out and install new gasket in place.
Reset door on hinges and reinstall bolts.
Plug door cable in and reattach kick plate and plug power cable in.
Push DW back in place and attach to cabinet and adjust kick plate

Twist counter clockwise to remove clockwise to install

My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine

Simply pick the basket up to slide wheels onto axles and push in until they lock in place.

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

Replaced gasket with a new one before further problems occurred. Got to get it in but it was relatively easy to place and snap in just make sure it fits on the right place where gasket inside meets ridges on door so it will be on properly for proper fit.

Unscrew the upper and side holding screws. Move dishwasher part way out. I didn't need to disconnect the water or electric. Make sure the electricity is off. Remember your working around water. Take off the bottom plat removing two screws, Remove broken cable pulley and replace new. Buy two since your their you might want to replace both. Have fun! It's duck soup.

Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.

I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.

1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.

2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.

4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!

5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯

Good luck!

Repair was straightforward. You can change water inlet on this model from underneath in bottom from, although it is a little tight