GDT635HMJ6ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The problem is described perfectly at the start of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video, between 5:30 min and 7:10 min of the video, led me to believe it was the user interface module not the master control board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video showed me how to replace the UI board on my exact model of dishwasher.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2scYMl-0f8s

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.

Shut off power to the unit, removed the front lower trim and under counter screws, then I disconnected the wiring from under the door leading to the UI at the top edge of the door. Removed the front door, separated and disassembled the outer door cover, I then removed the UI control board from its housing and the clear cover and reassembled the parts in reverse order and turned the power back on. FOLLOW the included instructions on connecting the pins on the new UI by cross reference the model number.

Started by removing dishwasher, including disconnecting power, water and drain line. Then turned washer on back. Electrical connector to old wash pump was a little tricky to remove as the release tab isn’t straightforward, I used a tiny screwdriver and jiggled it around till it came loose. The factory hose clamps (2) are crimped on, but if you can find the tail end you can work them loose with a screwdriver by prying the tail up from the body of the clamp. Once you have the electrical connector and the two clamps removed, the pump comes of easily with a twisting motion. The new wash motor came with new clamps (2 extra). When sliding the rubber boots on the new pump in place, it will require a twisting motion to position it correctly, make sure (I didn’t and had to go through the whole process twice) that the rubber boot is not folded under on the bottom where it’s hard to see. Tighten clamps carefully and don’t over tighten. Plug in electrical connector and you’re ready to reinstall dishwasher.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!

Removed the door to get to the UI control panel. Followed the instructions to set the jumpers to my particular model and put it back together. Fixed the issue and worked perfectly.

Followed a u-tube video to remove dish wash door assembly to get to the control board . Not too hard if you are mechanically inclined.

Replaced motherboard, parts select,very helpful in helping diagnose problem! Exchanged parts, credit account after returned parts. Great customer service All good stuff! They brought their A game for this diy-er...

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE PART! After taking the dishwasher apart and installing the new part...it still didn't work. Then we read the instructions that came with the part. There are different settings on the part depending on your model of dishwasher. We removed the part, set it to our dishwasher, and it works perfectly. The job could have been quicker if the instructions had been read first.

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Took it out of the box and set rollers on track
rolled in place ALL DONE

Unplugged power.
Shut off water supply.
Remove the kick panel.
Unscrewed dishwasher from under cabinet and side screws. lower feet to reduce tension.
As you slide the dishwasher out, be sure all lines (Drain, water supply, electric are free to move with dishwasher.
I was able to hold the dishwasher at an angle to easily get to the valve. After removing the the valve, i screwed the new valve back into place. I removed the Line between the valve and Dishwasher. Putting the line on the new valve. I removed the water supply line from the old valve and installed it on the new valve.
Placed the dishwater back in place and screed it back in. I ran the cycles. everything works!
I replace the kickpaner a couple of hours later. Check to make sure there were now leaks.