GDF620HGJ6WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

Standard repair process to replace UI. The piece worth noting is the strange behavior on initial install. After setting the jumpers to the correct pins for my model based on the instructions, the board would initially not respond. It was only after i change the jumpers to a setting for another model and put power on the board that i got a response. I then set the jumpers back to the pins for my model that the board began to respond normally. Its been fine since.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.

1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)

2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.

3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.

4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)

5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.

6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)

7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.

8. Carefully slide out the unit.

9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.

10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.

11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.

12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.

13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.

14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.

Good luck! You can do this :)

Replaced heating element. This was the path of least resistance but the problem persisted. I tried resetting the dishwasher but still nothing. My last resort is the circuit board. I checked the relays on the old board and they are fine so it must be something else on the circuit board. The dishwasher is not really that old (4 years) and everything else is fine. Just ordered the board so I really hope this fixes the problem.

I follow a YouTuber who had a semillar GE dishwasher model number. He was very helpful through the repair process.

Followed video instructions and all went went well.

The problem is described perfectly at the start of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video, between 5:30 min and 7:10 min of the video, led me to believe it was the user interface module not the master control board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video showed me how to replace the UI board on my exact model of dishwasher.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2scYMl-0f8s

A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!

The installation is fairly straightforward, basically one plug in electrical connection and two plumbing connections. The smaller of the two plumbing connections can be tricky because of the hose clamp... The original clamps are one time use crimp style. The replacements are standard hose clamps, which means the section where the tension mechanism is, is a bit wider than the clamp itself... This can cause the rubber collar on the dishwasher to slide off/separate from the pump part itself when tightening the hose clamp. If you are careful and align things just right, it will work like a charm. The best advice I have is to take your time and make sure the connections are snug without being too tight, otherwise it could leak and/or something else could break.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly